18- Drawing lessons from costume materials of past dynasties in novel creation (5) Song Dynasty costumes (4)

The crown clothes of the Empress and the Imperial concubine in Song Dynasty include Yi Yi Zhai, Ju Yi, Zhu Yi and Xi Chai Li Yi. Everything is like the old habits of Han and Tang Dynasties.

Easy clothes: the clothes worn by the queen when she accepts books, visits Jingling, attends meetings and other important activities.

Zhai Zhai Zhai: The princess and the Crown Prince are in the book, which they will wear for the meeting.

Juyi: The queen wears it when she kisses silkworms.

Zhu Yi: The maid-in-waiting wears it when she visits the emperor and hangs it down. (I can't find a picture for this! )

Ladies' gift clothes: worn when meeting guests at a banquet.

In the Song Dynasty, maids had official clothes.

The appointed ladies-in-waiting are generally called aristocratic women with titles. They enjoy all kinds of etiquette treatment, including the mothers and wives of first-class to fifth-class senior officials, commonly known as "Mrs. Yu Ming".

Maids are graded according to men's official clothes. Clothes include big sleeves, jackets, coats, skirts, robes, jackets and thick clothes.

Although women in the Song Dynasty mainly wore narrow-sleeved clothes, the big sleeves that took off their coats were still regarded as a symbol of luxury. Zhu Li Zijia: "Big sleeves, now women's blouses are knee-wide, and the sleeves are one foot and two inches long." Wearing this kind of clothing must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, ear ornaments, neck ornaments and chest ornaments.

Empresses, empresses and married women often wear long sleeves, long skirts, veils and silk.

The slender silhouette of uniforms is popular, which is contrary to the wide silhouette of the Tang Dynasty. Clothing color matching broke the habit of giving priority to red, purple, green and cyan in the Tang Dynasty, and mostly used black purple, agarwood (yellow and black), pink purple, scallion, silver gray and so on.

The pattern of clothing fabric has also changed from the conventional group flower in Tang Dynasty to the broken branch pattern, which has become more vivid and natural.

Xunzi is the most distinctive female costume in Song Dynasty. It is a common costume that queens, concubines, princesses, handmaids, kabuki and ordinary women like to wear, and even men wear Xunzi clothes.

Lapels are mainly straight collars and double-breasted buttons, and there are no buttons in front. The sleeves are wide and narrow, and the length of the clothes is knee-length, knee-length, and the skirt is ankle-length, which is worn outside the skirt. Influenced by the clothing of the Khitan people in Liao Dynasty, the clothes of raccoons are thin and narrow, with long slits under the left and right armpits and no stitching. Its characteristics are: comfortable fit, elegant and generous.

Ordinary women's clothes include rafts, coats, blouses, curtains, half-arms, vests, tube tops, belly wraps, skirts and trousers.

In the Song Dynasty, women paid attention to dressing up. They are poor and have only one or two clothes or headdresses.

Zhuang Chuo, a poet in the Song Dynasty, wrote in Chicken Ribs: "Women in Zhejiang and China are very concerned about clothes and food, but they are ashamed to make a living." This is a true portrayal of women's glitz in the Song Dynasty.

Common women's clothes are short and short, and the most common is to wear a jacket and a skirt. After marriage, professional women wear more pants in the lower part.

1) Yan, coat

Women's sweaters and jackets in the Song Dynasty are basically the same in shape, shorter than the waist and longer than the waist, which can be divided into two types: large-breasted and double-breasted.

When I wear a short jacket, I like to put my skirt outside.

Coat lined with absorbent cotton.

Usually aristocratic women are mainly purple and yellow, with embroidery and embroidery.

Women among civilians are mostly green, white and brown.

2) shirts

In Song Dynasty, blouses were mostly decorated with embroidery, including round neck, horizontal collar and straight collar. There are two kinds of sleeves: wide and narrow.

Clothing materials are generally made of light and soft silk, such as yarn, twill and silk. There are sentences describing the beauty of its texture in Song Ci, such as "Boluo shirt looks like Yichun", "Lotus-root silk shirt with white ball fan bottom" and "Robbie light shirt cover".

3) Half arm

Half-arm comes from samurai armor and is called half-arm because of its short sleeves.

There are many men inside and many women outside.

4) Wipe your chest and wrap your belly

Women's underwear tube tops are slightly shorter, like the cups used today; The Chinese-style chest covering is slightly longer, just like a Chinese-style chest covering for children, with only the front piece and no complete back piece.

"Miscellanies of the ruling and opposition parties since the establishment of Yan Dynasty" records that "the pink gauze wipes the chest and Zhen Hong wraps the abdomen", which shows that these two kinds of underwear were very bright in color at that time.

5) skirts

Women's skirts in Song Dynasty were popular with pleated skirts.

The skirt is made of more materials and the hem is enlarged. Generally, the color of the skirt is brighter than that of the coat, and the skirt is slender. The waist of the skirt was reduced from the high waist in the Tang Dynasty to the natural waist, and the waist was tied with a ribbon, which hung down. The skirt was embroidered with drawings or pearls and jade.

Sentences such as "Pearl skirt is lightly folded" and "Embroidered Luo Shuangdai for honeymoon" are all accessories to describe skirts, while sentences such as "shopkeeper's white-haired blue skirt" and "green skirt woman" describe elderly women or rural working women.

There is also a kind of "revolving skirt" with four slits in front and back, which was first popular among prostitutes in Kyoto.

6) Pants

The ancient pants of the Han nationality have no crotch, so they wear skirts.

In the Song Dynasty, women wore pants instead of skirts.

Wang, a custom painter in the Song Dynasty, described a young woman sitting in front of a spinning wheel with a baby in her arms and an old woman holding a thread, both of whom were wearing tied trousers. The difference between the two is that there is a skirt outside the old lady's trousers, perhaps because of the need of convenience at work, so she rolls the long skirt around her waist. This way of dressing is not found among non-working-class women.

7) socks and shoes

Socks are made of hemp, silk and cotton.

There is a kind of trousers connected with socks called pantyhose, which can be divided into long tubes and short tubes (haha! This is the same as today's pantyhose! )。

Pants are not only used by women, but also by men. "A Hook Sock and a Toad Bend" not only shows socks. It also shows the bad habit of women's foot binding.

In the Song Dynasty, women's foot-binding spread all over the people, and "three-inch golden lotus" became the basic requirement for female beauty.

Foot-binding shoes, called "bow shoes", are embroidered on the red vamp.

There are often images of women with little feet in paintings in Song Dynasty.

Women's shoes attach importance to toe styles, with crests and flower heads being the most common.

Working women are full of feet, wearing cloth shoes and straw sandals. And the shape of shoes is mostly flat or round.