Dear friends, how about hyacinthus orientalis! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj

Potted hyacinthus orientalis

I like warm and humid winter, cool and slightly dry summer, sunny or semi-cloudy environment. Like fertilizer, it should be fertile sandy loam with good drainage to avoid too wet or sticky soil. Bulbs in hyacinthus orientalis have the habit of dormancy in summer, take root in autumn and winter, sprout new buds in early spring, bloom in March and wither in early June. During the growth of hyacinthus orientalis, bulbs grow best at the low temperature of 2 ~ 6℃. The optimum temperature for bud germination is 5 ~ 10℃, the optimum temperature for leaf growth is 5 ~ 12℃, and the optimum flowering period is 15 ~ 18℃. Bulb storage temperature is 20 ~ 28℃, and the optimum temperature is 25℃, which is most suitable for flower bud differentiation. Can withstand short-term frost.

Purchase and planting

Selection and purchase

When buying seed heads, it is best to choose ones with bright skin color, strong texture, no disease spots and no insect mouths. Usually, the color of the seed coat can basically judge what color flowers it produces. For example, people with purple skin will have purple flowers, and those with white skin will have white flowers. However, some cross-bred varieties are complex in color and sometimes indistinguishable. Be sure to ask the operator before buying. After the seeds are bought back, in order to break the dormancy period, they should be placed in the lowest compartment of the refrigerator for about a month, so as to bloom smoothly in the future. But when you take it out of the refrigerator, you'd better put it in a cool place for seven or eight days before sowing.

cultivate

Potted hyacinthus orientalis

There are two cultivation methods in hyacinthus orientalis: first, pot planting, selecting loose soil with good drainage, applying sufficient base fertilizer, planting seeds in pots in June 5438+1 October, with each small pot planting1ball, and planting 3-4 balls in a large pot, and then covering the soil with a planting depth of 5-8 cm. Keep the soil moist after planting, and pay attention to increasing the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Flowering after about 120 days, fertilization before and after flowering 1 time. After the plants withered in June, the bulbs were dug out, dried in the sun and stored indoors at a temperature not exceeding 28℃. After hyacinthus orientalis blooms, if the seed heads are well preserved, there is hope that they will bloom again the next year. However, because this kind of head has degenerated, even if it is possible to survive, its plants will become shorter, and the scape will tend to shrink and cannot be preserved. It is best to buy a new seed head for cultivation in the next year. The second is hydroponics. /kloc-in February of 0/2, the seed heads can be put into a wide-mouth glass bottle with a little charcoal, which is helpful for disinfection and anticorrosion. Its seed head can only dip into the bottom of the ball. Then put it in the dark and cover the bottle with black cloth. In this way, after more than 20 days, the roots will germinate in a completely dark environment, and then they can be taken out to receive the sun. One or two hours a day at first, and then gradually increased to seven or eight hours. If the weather doesn't change much, it may bloom in the Spring Festival. Many families keep hyacinthus orientalis in a special bottle like a gourd. In the upper part, you can see its flower clusters, and in the lower part, you can see a bunch of thick white rhizomes. This kind of flower and root scene is hard to see except cymbidium. During the growing period, it is necessary to water continuously. If you leave it in the soil, cut off the flower stems after the flowering period, let the leaves wither naturally, and topdressing every year. However, some varieties will have fewer and fewer flowers after several years of planting; If you want to store it after flowering, you need to unplug it. After the leaves are naturally dried, cut them off. It is best to put it in a breathable bag with sawdust and put it in a dry, ventilated and cool place. Hyacinthus orientalis is also called daffodil or multicolored daffodil. Hyacinthus orientalis likes a cool, humid and sunny environment. It is more resistant to low temperature, but afraid of heat. It is suitable to grow in sandy loam with good drainage, but not in cohesive soil. Hyacinthus orientalis bulbs can only bloom when they grow to 19 cm. It blooms from March to April every year. For hyacinthus orientalis cultivation, firstly, select robust and plump bulbs, dry them in the shade in advance, put them into pottery pots in June 5438+February, mix 1 part of coarse sand, broken pond mud and 1 part of decomposed rice bran into nutrient soil, bury the bulbs in the soil, cover them with soil for 2-3 cm, and place them in the sunny place. Don't water them too much at first until the leaves touch the soil. After flowering, cut off the stems and fertilize again. July-August dormancy period, when bulbs will not grow, should be dug up in June-July, put in a cool place, do not expose to the sun until the Mid-Autumn Festival or after 65438+February before planting in the pot. You can also water it like daffodils. Hydroponics in hyacinthus orientalis, 65438+ February, you can put the seed balls in a wide-mouthed glass bottle, and add a little charcoal to help prevent corrosion and disinfection. Its seed balls can only be soaked to the bottom of the ball, but they are placed in the dark and covered with black cloth, so that they germinate in a completely black environment for about 20 days, and then they are exposed to the sun outdoors. At first, they glow 1-2 hours a day, and then gradually increase to 7-8 hours. Most of them can bloom in the Spring Festival when the weather is fine. After flowering in hyacinthus orientalis, if the bulbs are well preserved, they can still bloom in the next year, but the flowers will become shorter and the scape will shrink, mainly because the bulbs have degenerated. Therefore, it is best to buy new bulbs in hyacinthus orientalis after planting for one year.

Ecological habit

The coastal areas of China and the origin of Asia Minor like sunny and humid environment, and require well-drained and fertile sandy loam. Cold-tolerant, it takes root in autumn in warm winter areas, unearthed new buds in early spring, blossomed in March, matured in late May, and partially withered on the ground and went into dormancy in early June. The optimum temperature of flower bud differentiation during dormancy is about 25℃, and the differentiation process is about 65438 0 months. From flower bud differentiation to elongation growth, there should be a low temperature stage of about two months, and the temperature should not exceed 13C. The flower buds of commercial bulbs have all differentiated.

breeding method

The main breeding method is to divide the ball and use seeds for breeding.

Split sphere propagation

After digging the light bulb back in June, separate the big ball from the sub-ball. "After the big ball is planted in autumn, it will bloom in the early spring of the following year, and the sub-ball needs to be cultivated for 3 years to bloom. Due to the low distribution rate of natural balls in hyacinthus orientalis, only L ~ 2 balls can be produced after one year of planting. In order to improve the reproductive coefficient, castration can be used to stimulate the big ball to grow in the summer dormancy period. The method is that in August, when the flower bud has formed, a part of the stem disc at the bottom of the bulb is dug evenly to make the wound at the stem disc concave, and then it is cut vertically and horizontally from bottom to top with a knife to make a cross cut, reaching the center of the bud in the bulb. At this time, mucus will flow out, which will be smeared with 0. 1% mercuric chloride water for disinfection, then exposed to the sun for 1 ~ 2 hours, and then evenly smeared. Room temperature is kept at about 265438±0C, so that callus can be produced. When the scales expand, the temperature gradually rises to 30℃ and the relative humidity is 85%, and many small bulbs are formed in about three months. Bulbs induced by this method bloom after 3 ~ 4 years of culture.

Seed propagation

Mostly used to cultivate new varieties. Sow in the culture soil on a cold bed in autumn, covering 65438±0cm, and germinate at the end of June and early February of the following year. Bulbs cultured from seedlings will bloom after 4-5 years. The germination ability of seeds can be maintained for 3 years under general storage conditions.

cultivation techniques

Hyacinthus orientalis should choose sandy loam with good drainage and not too dry, neutral to slightly alkaline. Sufficient base fertilizer should be applied before planting to avoid field cultivation. Cultivation methods include open field cultivation, pot cultivation, extension cultivation and hydroponics.

land cultivation

It should be carried out on June 5438+00 ~ 1 1, and the most important condition is to choose well-drained soil. Before planting, apply sufficient base fertilizer, add a layer of thin sand on it, then arrange bulbs at the interval of 15 cm ~ 18 cm, and cover them with 5 cm ~ 8 cm soil. Cover with grass to keep the soil loose and moist. Generally there is no other management before flowering. If the seeds are not harvested after flowering, the stem should be cut off to promote the development of bulbs, and the cutting position should be at the top of the stem as far as possible. At the beginning of June, bulbs can be dug out and stored in cold storage, and the temperature should not exceed 28℃ in summer.

pot culture

Use loam, humus, fine sand and other mixed nutrient soil. Generally, a pot has one ball with a diameter of 10cm, and a pot has two or three balls with a diameter of 15cm. Then bury the basin in the soil and cover it with 10cm ~ 15cm soil. After 7 ~ 8 weeks, the bud grows to 65,438+00.

Hydroponics

The container is filled with clean water and placed in a dark place. Choose a big ball so that the bottom of the ball root is immersed in water. When the root grows to 10 cm, move it to a bright place and expose it to the sun. The room temperature is kept at about 15C, and it is planted in 10 and blooms at the end of the year.

forcing culture

After the end of July, bulbs were treated at a low temperature of 8C for 70 ~ 75 days, and then potted in early June, 10, and cultivated in the greenhouse, so that they could bloom at the end of the year. Because the sensitivity of cultivated varieties is very different, it is necessary to choose varieties suitable for popularization when popularizing cultivation.

Four main points of cultivation in hyacinthus orientalis

Seed ball selection

The nutrients needed for flowering in hyacinthus orientalis are mainly provided by the nutrients stored in the stems and leaves of bulbs. As long as the bulbs with no damage to the epidermis and no excessive contraction of the fleshy scales are selected, rich and beautiful flowers can be produced.

Soil requirements

It requires fertile soil, high organic matter content, good aggregate structure and pH value of 6 ~ 7. The culture soil can be prepared according to the ratio of humus soil 5∶ garden soil 3∶ coarse sand 1.5∶ bone meal 0.5; Before planting, after the soil temperature reaches 10 ~ 15℃, the soil surface can be covered with a thin film with formalin and other chemicals immediately. After three days of warm weather, the film can be uncovered and planted in the air for 1 day to keep the soil moist. White Hyacinth

illuminate

Hyacinthus orientalis only needs more than 5000Lx to maintain normal physiological activities. If the light is too weak, the plants will be thin, the stems will be too long, the buds will be small, the flowers will wither early and the leaves will turn yellow. At around 1 m, incandescent lamps can be used to fill the light. However, too much light can also burn leaves and petals or shorten flowering period.

Temperature and humidity regulation

When the temperature is too high, even higher than 35℃, the flower bud differentiation will be inhibited, abnormal growth will occur and the blind flower rate will increase; If the temperature is too low, the bud will be frozen. Soil moisture should be kept between 60% and 70%. If it is too high, root respiration will be inhibited and it will rot easily. If it is too low, the aboveground parts will wither or even die. The air humidity should be kept at about 80%, which can be increased by spraying water or sprinkling water on the ground, or reduced by ventilation.

Edit the pests and diseases in this paragraph and their control.

Sclerotinia sclerotiorum harms seedlings and bulbs, petal-splitting disease harms flowers, and stem nematode disease harms aerial parts. When collecting bulbs, the injured or sick bulbs should be removed, and when storing bulbs, the room should be ventilated. The prevention and control of diseases in hyacinthus orientalis should be based on strengthening management and based on the principles of active prevention and comprehensive prevention. Due to the short growth period of hyacinthus orientalis in greenhouse, diseases mainly occur. The common diseases in hyacinthus orientalis are bud rot, soft rot, Sclerotinia sclerotiorum and virus disease. Strict disinfection of substrate before planting, cleaning and disinfection of seed bulbs, spraying carbendazim or chlorothalonil 1000 times every 7 days during the growth period, and alternate use can inhibit the spread of germs to some extent. Strictly controlling watering quantity, strengthening ventilation management, controlling the relative humidity of ambient air, and pulling out the central diseased plants in time can greatly reduce the incidence rate.

Production and planting technical training materials

Temperature treatment

1. 1 Introduction hyacinthus orientalis is native to Asia Minor, and the existing cultivated variety in the Netherlands is hyacinthus orientalis Oriental strain blue variety, which was introduced to the Netherlands in the middle of16th century. As a member of Liliaceae, hyacinthus orientalis overwinters in the form of bulbs. At the beginning of this century, flower growers began to produce hyacinthus orientalis in greenhouse and treat it at a certain temperature. Like bulbs such as tulips, their bulbs need to be preserved at low temperature for a period of time, otherwise they cannot produce high-quality flowers and long enough stems. 1.2 Use: Introduce that hyacinthus orientalis can provide potted plants and cut flowers for consumers. 1.3 Usage: One or more hyacinthus orientalis bulbs are planted in each potted flower, and the bulbs can bloom after temperature treatment. Potted hyacinthus orientalis is usually sold when the lowest floret on the inflorescence begins to separate. If a plant is removed from the greenhouse at this stage, it is called "budding hyacinthus orientalis". Although bulbs of different specifications should be planted in potted hyacinthus orientalis, their sizes are usually above 17- 18, 18- 19 or 19 cm. 1.4 uses: cut flowers In order to produce cut flowers hyacinthus orientalis, the bulbs are planted in a cultivation box. As mentioned above, flowering is promoted by temperature treatment. Seed balls of different specifications can be used for production, but the common sizes are 15- 16, 16- 17 or 18 cm. The growth process of hyacinthus orientalis at 65438 0.5℃ includes leaf formation stage, flower formation stage and jointing stage. By advancing the flowering period and providing the most effective low temperature period, the flowering of seed bulbs can be promoted. This is why hyacinthus orientalis planted in the Mediterranean often blooms early. By keeping the high temperature in the planting stage of the seed ball, the leaf formation period can be accelerated, so the flower formation period is also advanced. Compared with other bulbous plants, hyacinthus orientalis made them blossom ahead of time by special temperature treatment. One way to achieve this goal is to increase the soil temperature during the growth of seed bulbs. This method is rarely used because of its high cost. It is more common to dig out the seed balls ahead of time and conduct temperature treatment in the air-conditioned room at the same time to promote flower formation. Cutting time and treatment temperature are the differences between potted plants and cut flowers in hyacinthus orientalis. 1.6 Dig out the prepared hyacinthus orientalis seed balls around June 20th, and then carry out a series of temperature treatments to promote flower formation. According to the growing place, variety and digging period of bulbs, the flowers will be fully formed in late August. Technically, it is called "G stage". It is not until the inflorescence in hyacinthus orientalis is formed that the last floret can be recognized, and this stage is reached. The extension period will continue from here. Prepared bulbs are usually used for potted plants. Hyacinthus orientalis bloomed at the end of February at 65438+,while hyacinthus orientalis, a cut flower, bloomed in the middle of June at 65438+ 10. Hyacinthus orientalis 1.7 The unprepared hyacinthus orientalis bulbs were dug up later (after June 20th), and then an optimum temperature suitable for flower formation was obtained. During this treatment, G phase was reached, although it was slightly slower than the prepared hyacinthus orientalis seed ball. The provided temperature will be maintained until the grower wants to start the extended period of hyacinthus orientalis. This means that a delayed growth temperature will be provided after the G stage is reached. For seeds that are not ready, it is not very important at the G stage. Despite the fact that at the beginning of the extension period, the G period is sometimes not reached. Because bulbs are not planted very early, there will be no problem in future cultivation. As a potted plant, the unprepared bulbs of hyacinthus orientalis usually bloom after 65438+1 October1,while the cut flowers bloom after the middle of 65438+1October. Medium temperature treatment at 65438 0.8 For the prepared hyacinthus orientalis, the temperature is kept at 65438 0.7℃ after reaching G stage. This can promote the plant to enter the elongation stage. Although the flowering period has ended, moderate temperature treatment can still affect the quality of flowers. At the temperature of 17℃, it is undoubtedly beneficial. It is not recommended to use the intermediate temperature below 17℃ here, because it may cause the risk of Penicillium infection and have a more or less negative impact on the quality of hyacinthus orientalis. The proportion of immature or dry florets in inflorescence may increase, and problems such as blind flowers and bud rot will follow. For unprepared hyacinthus orientalis, the intermediate temperature starts in the fourth week before planting, and the extension period begins at the same time. If it is planted after 65438+February 15, the temperature before planting should be 25℃, not 17℃. The purpose of this is to prevent the formation of roots and avoid the infection of Penicillium. However, the next low temperature period will have to be extended by 1-2 weeks.

Planting steps of potted hyacinthus orientalis

2. 1 For an overview of greenhouses, cultivation boxes and potted soil, please refer to Chapter 4 of Tulip Materials. 2.2 The prepared hyacinthus orientalis should be planted immediately upon arrival. If it must be laid aside for a period of time, it should be placed in an open container and in a ventilated room with the temperature of 17-20℃. Ventilation can be calculated as follows:-At 17℃, 100 liter seed ball is 2 cubic meters per hour; At -20℃, 100 liter of seed balls is 6- 10 cubic meter per hour. Any higher temperature will delay the formation of flowers. The temperature below 17℃ leads to high relative humidity in the air, which in turn causes Penicillium to infect seed ball tissues, such as formed roots. This has a negative effect on the quality of flowering. Unprepared seeds should be stored at the following temperatures: -23-25℃, with ventilation of100L seeds and 6 6- 10/0m3 per hour until 4 weeks before sowing; -At 17℃, the ventilation rate is100L of seeds, 2 cubic meters per hour. 2.3 Planting Time The planting time in hyacinthus orientalis depends on the following factors:-Whether it is ready. The best time to put the prepared hyacinthus orientalis seeds into the incubator is in late September. It is suitable for planting in June 5438+10, without preparation. -Low temperature treatment stage. If the seeds are stored in the rooting room or outdoor storage box without air conditioning, they cannot be planted when the temperature does not reach 13℃ or lower (preferably 9℃). Higher temperature will make the root system bad, increase the risk of Fusarium infection and delay the growth. Therefore, before planting, seed balls can be placed at 13℃ for several weeks. -Ideal flowering period. The correct planting period can be obtained from the expected flowering period backwards. -Cold treatment time required for each variety at different stages. -Diversity. Not all varieties are suitable for cultivation at any time. In addition to the flowering stage and cold treatment stage, there are other important problems that cannot be ignored, such as being too high or too soft and weak plants. 2.4 Planting method It is best to plant 1 or 3-5 bulbs per pot. There must be a drain at the bottom of the washbasin. There are several kinds of soils or mixtures with pH value of 6-7 that can be used as potted soil. To prevent itching caused by planting hyacinthus orientalis bulbs, spray them wet before planting. However, it is not allowed to soak seeds in water, because this will lead to the risk of Erwinia infection. When planting, the flowerpot can be filled with soil and the seed balls can be pressed into the soil. It is also worth noting that hyacinthus orientalis's reaction when it takes root will push it out of the soil. At the end of the planting season, more work needs to be done in this regard to avoid similar problems in the rooting room. You can press a layer of coarse sand (at least 3 cm) or cover the top of the seed ball with a layer of foam plastic. In order to achieve this goal, growers sometimes put shelves on it. After three to four weeks, the seeds have completely taken root, so the shelf covering them must be removed to avoid affecting the buds, and the shelf can be reused in the next cultivation. The planting density depends on the size of the pot, but it does not exceed 200 grains per square meter. After planting, the flowerpot should be watered completely, but not excessively. Because too wet potted soil will reduce the quality of rooting environment and increase the risk of pythium infection.

Crop protection, diseases and physiological disorders

7. 1 Conventional soil treatment In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases during outdoor soil cold treatment, fresh soil should be used every year. In this way, there is no need for conventional treatment of soil. If the soil has been used before, it can be used to put pots or cover seed balls. Conventional soil disinfection is recommended before use to avoid the occurrence of Rhizoctonia. This conventional soil treatment method is consistent with the soil treatment before tulip planting. In addition, you can refer to the conventional soil treatment methods, and we suggest that you consult the relevant local departments. 7.2 Handling of light bulbs involves various methods of handling light bulbs. Please refer to Chapter 7 "Handling bulbs" in the tulip manual. The first protective measure to prevent fungal diseases is to follow the culture steps mentioned above correctly. For the treatment of seed balls to prevent fungi, please refer to the monthly information notice of the Dutch International Flower Center about seed balls or consult the local consulting department or supplier. If the temperature of 9℃ can be provided immediately after sowing in hyacinthus orientalis, and the flower buds are completely exposed without covering the soil during cold treatment, there is no need to treat the seeds with fungicides. 7.3 A part of the parasitic top rot plant is located in the upper part of inflorescence, which is called "top rot" and is often accompanied by brown spot on the tip of the leaf. Etiology This kind of rot is mostly caused by parasites that randomly exist under normal circumstances, including plants that start to infect after florets are dried (physiological bud rot) or plants that have been infected by parasitic bacteria in advance (parasitic bud rot), and then parasites can cause the initial infection. Rhizoctonia solani infects plants from contaminated soil (even before planting). The distinguishing sign is that some small flowers have irregular shapes and bright brown serrated scars. The incidence on the outer leaves is slightly lower. The more serious infection is that the spots become bigger and the leaves of plants turn brown. When planted in greenhouse, you can see the growth traces of cobweb fungi. This kind of infection is often regional, and it will be aggravated when the soil temperature rises. Fusarium infection occurs when the root of the seed ball begins to grow. Once infected, the root tip remains white, while the root cap decays. The water supply to the bulbs is interrupted, resulting in inflorescence drying, usually followed by top rot or plant growth retardation. The main factors affecting the growth of fungi are: temperature exceeding 9℃, moving into greenhouse without adequate low temperature treatment. The sign of the harm of thrips (thrips are small, slender and dark brown pests) is that there are small white spots on the leaves and inflorescences of plants. This is caused by pests sucking young plant tissues. Then these endangered places turn brown and die. The inflorescence withered and died, and the dead part became the food source of parasites. This infection only occurs in the rooting room, and it will be aggravated when the temperature rises. Preventive measures-often use new soil as basin soil. The infected soil is treated by conventional methods before use. -The natural cold treatment and rooting room should be kept at the specified temperature. 7.4 The initial symptoms of Penicillium (decay during storage) can be seen immediately before planting. At the root tip, the fungal infected part is dry. When cutting roots, you can see that the surrounding tissues are light brown. Tissue of the same color can also be seen where the small seed ball falls off. Seeds will continue to rot during storage and subsequent planting. Infected bulbs have short buds, and the bulbs themselves have few or no roots. Plants lodging easily. This fungal infection also occurred in the injured part of the seed ball. There are white to blue-green fungi growing at the infected site. The underlying tissue is brown and soft, but this infection does not spread to the root disk, which has no adverse effect on the flowering quality. Etiology This infection is caused by different Penicillium species, such as Penicillium verrucosum. "Pink Pearl" and its varieties are easily infected by root tips. This infection mainly occurs in the low-temperature storage room (17℃ below), and the humidity is higher than 70%. Another reason is that the seed ball is injured. Prevention and control methods-prevent buds or roots from forming prematurely. Plant immediately after arrival (especially "Pink Pearl" and its varieties). -In the storage room, keep the specified constant temperature and make the air circulate. Keep the humidity below 70% during the whole storage period. 7.5 Erwinia (soft rot) In the greenhouse, seriously infected bulbs no longer germinate. The seed ball becomes soft, and the seed ball tissue is transparent with white or yellow spots. These infected bulbs also give off an unpleasant smell. The symptoms of mild infection are: some moist, dark green long areas are formed from the base of leaves. First, the growth is blocked, and then the plants wither until they die. Etiology The disease is caused by Erwinia. This kind of bacteria is mostly parasitic, mainly infecting frozen or dehydrated tissues. When the temperature is too high or the soil is too wet, another form of infection comes from wounds, and premature roots or small seeds fall off. This problem is mainly caused by too high or too wet soil temperature during natural cold treatment in autumn. Delft Blue and Carnegie are highly susceptible varieties. Don't worry about the "yellow disease" that accompanies this disease. This disease is not contagious in the greenhouse. Although infected tissues usually appear butter-colored, infection does not occur in other parts. Prevention and control methods —— Usually, planting seed balls is carried out under the recommended conditions, that is, natural treatment or rooting room is kept at low temperature (9℃) and not too humid. -Remove infected bulbs and plants during planting and throughout the greenhouse. This can prevent Erwinia from spreading to neighboring bulbs through irrigation water. 7.6 Physiological Bud Rot This bud rot is also manifested as the symptoms of flower rot at the top of some inflorescences. However, leaves are usually not damaged. The early symptom of physiological bud rot is white rather than milky white. Often appear in the process of moving into a room or shortly after. The stamens of these infected florets are vitrified, withered or withered. In the warm and humid greenhouse environment, these dead flowers provide ideal living conditions for spoilage bacteria, fungi and mites that often exist around them. If the infection is caused by Erwinia, the infected floret is grayish white (and then turns brown). They are wet, smelly and eventually rot. The adjacent florets also look vitrified. If infected with Penicillium, the symptoms are blue-green and the flowers rot. In the last stage of the cultivation process, especially when plants are ready to be put on the market, fungi will infect the top florets. The color of the stem is reddish-brown, the floret is green continuously, and blue-green fungi can be seen growing. If hyacinthus orientalis, which is ready to enter the market, is in cold and humid conditions, such problems will arise. The main reason of physiological bud rot is the dehydration of the last floret, which is caused by short-term cold treatment. Whether it is sensitive to this bud rot depends on different varieties and the size of bulbs. For example, Pink Pearl is more sensitive than anna marie. Another cause of infection is that Penicillium or Erwinia usually infects dry florets and then transfers them to other adjacent florets. If uninfected florets are infected by fungi, they will dry up (blind flowers). Prevention and control methods-ensure that the rooting room and natural treatment temperature of planting seeds are kept at a constant temperature of 9℃, and compensation measures should be taken for treatment outside 9℃. -Don't move the seeds indoors prematurely, and provide the required cold treatment for each variety. -Maintain a constant temperature of 23-25℃ during greenhouse, and the temperature drop during planting shall not be greater than 1-2℃ to avoid Penicillium infection caused by high relative humidity in greenhouse climate. Never water the inflorescence, especially at the last stage. -Before transportation, if storage can't be provided, don't make the soil in the pot too wet, and make sure there is enough air circulation between plants. 7.7 "The top turns green" Some florets at the top of inflorescences remain green, and in severe cases, they will spread all over the top of the flowers. The cause is disorder caused by improper low temperature treatment; The treatment time is too short or the temperature is incorrect, which will produce such a result. Some varieties, such as "Pink Pearl" and its varieties and "Jan Bos", are more sensitive to this imbalance than others. Control method-after culture, operate according to the specified cold treatment period and low temperature. 7.8 "Inflorescence Growth Skew" After the bulbs were moved into the greenhouse, the uppermost growth of the flower stems in hyacinthus orientalis became skewed. The reason is that among the large inflorescences in hyacinthus orientalis, some flower stems and attached florets grow faster than others, such as Delft Blue and its varieties, Carnegie and L'Innocence. This trait is not what we expected. This imbalance is more common in hyacinthus orientalis, and hyacinthus orientalis planted it earlier with larger inflorescences. Control methods-after planting, adopt specified cold treatment and low temperature standards-keep the greenhouse temperature slightly lower (18- 17℃), which can also prevent inflorescence from skewing. 7.9 "Flowering at the top" is different from the normal growth state, and the floret at the top blooms earlier than the floret at the lower part. The inflorescences of these flowers are usually short and strong. This etiological imbalance is caused by the lack of cold treatment of varieties before moving plants indoors. Each variety has different sensitivity to this disease. Prevention and control methods-after planting, operate according to the specified cold treatment and low temperature standards.

I hope your hyacinthus orientalis will blossom soon.

Author Jassy