A Lonely Alternative Constellation —— Omega Global Overlord Watch

When you talk about Omega, your cousin will think of the iconic Manhattan series and its famous watchcase claw. Few people would think that the Globemaster watch launched by Omega in 20 15 is actually a part of the constellation series, but it has been five years since its launch, which is extremely lonely and unfortunate.

Omega constellation is in 1960s.

Omega constellation series can be traced back to 1952 at the earliest, and it is definitely the flagship product of Omega in that era. The earliest constellation movements were Zatuo's Cal.384 movement and unique diamond hour markers, and later the famous 5xx movement was used, among which Cal.56 1 was the best in that era. The pie-shaped dial and dove hands are its representative identification features, which have been used until the late 1960s. The eight stars on the back of the watch represent the eight most important accurate records of the movement set by Omega in the1940s and1950s. Constellation watches are highly respected by watch lovers because of their ear design and gold time scale.

Because Lockheed registered the constellation trademark for its aircraft in 1960s and early 1950s, Omega entered the North American market and had to choose another name-Globe Overlord. It is no exaggeration to say that Globemaster was more expensive than Rolex Datejust in American retail stores at that time!

During the crisis in the 1970s and 1980s, Omega took a detour and let Rolex overtake it, and it has been under pressure by Rolex ever since. Auggie must be very upset. He always wants to make a big move. The result is the Globemaster series wristwatches released in 20 15. As can be seen from the name, Omega just wants to get back to the peak. Of course, in order to be cautious, Omega did not stop producing the traditional constellation Manhattan series, but started a new stove-retro style+advanced movement.

In terms of shape design, Zunba directly draws lessons from the classic elements of the old constellations in the 1960s, and the faceted radian of the dial is similar to the upturned pie plate. The dial also has Venus in the constellation, a stick pointer and a time scale, and there is a date window at 6 o'clock. Another retro element is the grooved bezel, which many people may think is copied from Rolex DJ, but it is not. Omega used this bezel in the constellation of its "C"-shaped case in the 1960s, which added retro interest and charm. In addition, the bezel of fine steel bezel is made of scratch-resistant tungsten carbide.

Omega's bigger bet is on the movement, and Globemaster is the first watch certified by METAS in the world.

Globemaster's 8900 movement double spring has 60 hours of power storage, which can quickly set the hour hand without the function of quickly setting the date. The coaxial escapement has a unique vibration frequency of 25,200bph What's more unique is that it has been certified by Meta and COSC.

Tested independently by Swiss Federal Bureau of Metrology. In order to get the title of the highest observatory watch, your watch must pass eight rigorous tests set by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), and its internal movement must first be certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC). METAS test aims to make these movements develop continuously, regardless of the actual conditions of COSC test.

1. The daily average accuracy test of the watch is to put the watch in different positions and at different temperatures, then expose it to the magnetic field of 15000 gauss, demagnetize it at different positions and temperatures, and check it again.

2. The movement is influenced by 15000 gauss magnetic field at two different positions.

3. Repeat test 2, the watch itself will be affected by 15000 gauss magnetic field and check the accuracy.

The first test above lasted for 4 days, during which the average deviation of the watch was measured.

5. The water pressure resistance of the instrument has been tested by immersion.

6. The duration of power is measured independently by taking photos.

7. Measure the error of the watch at different positions of 100% power and 33% power, and test the accuracy of the power reserve.

8. Running time when the watch is placed in six different positions.

In addition, each Globemaster is equipped with an authentication card (with an access code), which allows you to view the test results on your watch.

20 15 years Rolex was basically in the world of 3 135, and this movement in the 1980s was a little tired. The new generation of 3235 movement was just launched at the Basel exhibition that year, and Omega released Globemaster's 1 1 models in one breath, from belt steel models, steel models and gold models.

Zunba calendar watch

Zunba is determined to win, trying to give Rolex Datejust a head-on blow with revolutionary movement and retro style. At that time, the propaganda momentum was not too great. Six Zunba calendar watches were launched in 20 16, but later Omega stopped. Four years later, it did not launch new products, but began to constantly update the traditional constellation series. This year, 465438+ was launched.

Obviously, Omega Zunba didn't win the market. Why?

Big brands launch brand-new watch series, which must be planned several years in advance, and so is Zunba. 20 15, initially driven by the momentum of last year's diamagnetic 15000 gauss bee needle. Unexpectedly, it encountered a low tide of luxury goods, which may be due to factors such as anti-corruption in the mainland superimposed overseas. This year, the sales of almost all brands showed a double-digit decline. When the economy is depressed, luxury goods tend to be conservative and sell mature classics.

Just in the 1960s.

The brand-new Zunba moved out of the disk of the classic constellation in the 1950 s, and the case imitated the C-shaped case of the constellation in the 1960 s. Although these are classic styles in Omega's treasure house, these allusions are only familiar to a few fans, and they started in the 1970s and have not reappeared for half a century. Watch consumers under the age of 45 have always been familiar with Manhattan-style constellation watches, and the constellation with claws is definitely more recognized. The continuity of design is very important for luxury goods. After two or three generations, consumers have not realized that classic design is equivalent to brand-new design, so consumers should be educated from the beginning. In sharp contrast, the design language of Rolex Datejust has not changed much since 1960s.

Zunba probably initially shouldered the heavy responsibility of challenging Datejust, so the pricing is much more expensive than the traditional constellation; For example, fine steel Constellation with 39mm belt is also the best movement, and METAS certification is not unusual. For example, the classic constellation131.13.39.20.06.001costs 47,000 yuan, while 130.33.