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How to plant tea trees, video encyclopedia of tea tree planting skills
Ecological habits of tea trees
1, temperature: the tolerance of camellia to low temperature shows certain differences among varieties. Single-petal varieties have stronger cold tolerance than common varieties, and can tolerate the low temperature of-10℃, while rare varieties have lower tolerance to low temperature. Camellia will stop growing above 30℃ and get sunburned above 35℃. The optimum temperature for growth is between18c and 25℃, and the optimum temperature for flowering is between10c and 20℃.
2, lighting: Camellia likes half yin and half yang, avoid sunshine. Young trees are shade-tolerant, while big trees need some light. Seeing the sun for more than 3 to 4 hours every day is conducive to flowering. However, in summer, strong direct sunlight will cause serious burns to the leaves and wither the branchlets. Scattered light is better than direct light, so shade is needed in summer. In winter, it is best to have full sunshine in the south and wind protection in the northwest.
3. Soil: Camellia likes fertile, loose and slightly acidic loam or humus, and can grow in the range of ph4.5~ph6.5, especially in the range of ph5.5~ph6.5. Alkaline soil and cohesive soil are not suitable for camellia growth. The requirement for soil moisture is to be moist and well drained. Pay attention to drainage in rainy season and typhoon season to avoid the death of rotten roots.
4. Growth: The new shoots germinate twice a year, the first time from the end of March to the middle and late April, and then stop growing in the middle and late May, which is called spring shoots, and the second time from the middle and late July to September, which is called summer shoots, and then stop growing. Bamboo shoots grow in great quantities. Under normal circumstances, the flowering period of a single flower is 7~ 15 days, but it can be as long as one month in winter.
Propagation techniques of tea trees
1. Cutting seedling: The most suitable time is around the middle of June and the end of August. Semi-mature branches with abundant external tissues, complete leaves and full leaf buds were selected as cuttings, with a length of 8 ~ 10 cm and two leaves at the top. When cutting, try to take some old branches at the base, and it is easy to form callus and take root quickly after cutting. The cuttings were cut in the morning, and they should be inserted with the cuttings, and the matrix should be about 3 cm. When cutting, ask the leaves to meet each other, and then press them with your fingers. It is best to insert it shallowly, so that it is breathable and heals quickly. The bed should be shaded and sprayed with leaves every day to keep it moist. The temperature should be kept at 20 ~ 25℃, and it will start to heal about 3 weeks after transplanting and take root after 6 weeks. When the roots grow to 3 ~ 4 cm, transplant them to the upper pot. Soaking the base of cuttings with 0.4% ~ 0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2 ~ 5s during cutting has obvious root promotion effect.
2. Grafting cultivation: it is often used for cutting varieties that are difficult to take root or have few propagation materials. The survival rate of grafting is the highest when the new buds are semi-qualitative in May-June, and the new buds germinate quickly after grafting. Camellia oleifera is the main rootstock, which was harvested in June+10 in 5438, stored in sand in winter and sown in early April of the following year. When the seedlings grow to 4 ~ 5 cm, they can be grafted. Cut off the germ part of the rootstock with a blade, split it vertically upwards along the pith center of the cross section of the embryonic axis, then take a section of camellia scion, cut the base below this section into a right-angled wedge shape, immediately insert the cut scion into the bottom of the split part of the rootstock, align it with the cambium on both sides, tie it tightly with cotton thread, and put on a clean plastic bag. It takes about 40 days to remove the pocket, and about 60 days to germinate and sprout.
3. Layered culture: In rainy season, healthy 1 annual branches are selected, which are 20 cm away from the top, annularly peeled and 1 cm wide, bound with humus, wrapped with plastic film, and take root in about 60 days. After cutting, it can be potted directly with high survival rate.
4. Seeding and seedling raising: suitable for single-petal or semi-double-petal varieties. 65438+ seed1can be sown when it matures in the middle of October. Suitable for shallow sowing, vermiculite as substrate, covering 6 mm, room temperature 2 1℃, light 10 hour every night, can promote seed germination, and the seedling height can reach 8 cm within 30 days after sowing. When the seedlings grow to 2-3 leaves, they should be transplanted.
5. Tissue culture: After routine disinfection, the common seedlings of explants were cut into 65438±0cm long and inoculated on MS medium containing 65438 0 mg of kinetin, 65438 0 mg of 6- benzylamino adenine and 0.65438±0mg of indoleacetic acid per liter. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus was formed without buds. After transferring to a new medium, a single branch of 4 cm began to form, then it was soaked in the solution of 0.5 mg of indolebutyric acid per liter for 20 minutes, then transferred to the medium of 2 ms 1, and took root after 4 weeks. After growing on long-root medium for 8 weeks, the seedlings were transplanted into flowerpots filled with perlite and peat.
Method for planting tea tree
1, ground planting
(1) Planting time: If you choose a place suitable for its ecological requirements, autumn planting is better than spring.
(2) Fertilization method: Fertilization should master three key stages: fertilization in February-March, promoting the effect of spring shoots and fertilization after flowering, fertilization in June, promoting the growth of secondary branches and improving drought resistance, and fertilization in10 ~1month, so that new roots can slowly absorb fertilizer, improve the cold resistance of plants and lay the foundation for the growth of spring shoots next year.
③ Proper pruning: Camellia should not be pruned intensively, as long as the branches of diseases and insect pests, too dense branches and weak branches are deleted. In order to prevent overnutrition due to flowering, the flowers are large and bright, so it is necessary to sparse the buds in time and keep 1~2 buds per branch.
2. Potted plants
① Pot size: the ratio of pot size to seedlings should be appropriate. It is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 pine needle humus to the garden soil.
② Potting time: The best time for potted plants is winter 165438+ 10 or February-March in early spring. Feeding should be stopped during germination and avoided in high temperature season.
(3) When the seedlings are newly put into the pot, they should be watered enough to make the bottom of the pot permeable, and they should be watered properly at ordinary times. The amount of watering is required to change with the season, and more watering can be used in summer during the growth period and flowering period of leaves and stems, and watering should be properly controlled after the new shoots stop growing to promote flower bud differentiation. Water accumulation should be prevented in rainy season, and watering should be reduced after autumn. When watering, the water temperature should be similar to the soil temperature.
(4) Shading and damage prevention: Camellia is generally cultivated in greenhouse, and sufficient sunshine should be given in spring and rainy season, otherwise the branches will grow weak and cause diseases and insect pests. Sunshade should be used in high temperature period to cool down, and anti-freezing measures should be taken in time in winter. When potted plants overwinter indoors, 3~4℃ is suitable. If the temperature exceeds 16℃, it will promote early germination, and even cause defoliation and bud drop in severe cases.
Control of tea plant diseases and insect pests
1, camellia spot virus disease
The leaves of plants with symptoms are yellow mottled or mottled, usually yellow. Mottled shapes are different, sometimes faded, and sometimes there are irregular spots or spots. Flowers sometimes appear mottled or marbled.
Prevention and control methods: avoid cutting with diseased tree scions, and do not use diseased plants as rootstocks.
2. Camellia leaf spot
Symptomatic diseased leaves appear small dots at the beginning, and after a period of time, round or oval spots with the size of 2 mm -7 mm are formed. The lesions are dark brown to smoky gray with slightly raised edges. Sometimes there is a dark brown band between the necrotic area and the healthy part. Small black spots grow on the surface of the lesion in the later stage.
Control method: Remove diseased leaves and spray 600 times of 75% chlorothalonil solution or 0. 15% potassium permanganate solution.
3. Gray leaf spot of camellia
Symptoms, also known as ring spot disease and ring spot disease, are common diseases of Camellia, which mainly harm leaves and new shoots. The lesion on the leaf is nearly round, semi-circular and brown, and the size is 1-2 cm. After enlargement, the center of the lesion turned gray, the edge was dark brown, and it was obviously raised. There is a clear boundary between the lesion and the surrounding healthy tissue. In the later stage, dark spots are produced on the diseased spots, which are thick and fall off in severe cases. When the lesion occurs in the new shoot, it often makes the new shoot brown, slender and waterlogged, with obvious edges, and then gradually droops and shrinks, and occasionally breaks into ulcer spots with a size of 3-4 mm, sometimes reaching 10-30 mm, and finally the lesion tip falls off.
Strengthening cultivation management, making plants grow healthily and improving disease resistance are the main measures for horticultural disease prevention. For example, appropriate application of organic fertilizer, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
Artificial prevention and control of early diseased leaves, reducing the source of infection, including clearing diseased leaves and fallen leaves before overwintering, burying or burning.
Spraying 70% mancozeb 600 times solution or 70% thiophanate-methyl superfine wettable powder 1000 times solution and1:1:160-200 times bordeaux solution every10.
4. Botrytis cinerea
Symptoms: germs first invade from the tip of petals. After the onset, the waterlogging in the affected area faded. Finally, petals turn yellow and rot, and flowers fall off.
Prevention and control methods ① Pay attention to ventilation and reduce humidity. (2) Remove diseased flowers in time, destroy them centrally or bury them in the ground. ③ At the early stage of onset, spray 1500 times of 50% Sukeling wettable powder or 1500 times of 50% chlorpheniramine.
5, camellia sunburn
The main injured part of symptoms is leaves. Slightly injured leaves produce pale gray, light yellow and yellowish brown scars on the leaf surface, and the edge boundary of spots is not obvious, and the corresponding parts of the leaf back do not show symptoms. The damaged leaves are brown to dark brown with obvious edges and slightly yellow around. With the passage of time, a rectangular, oval or nearly round brown necrotic spot appears in the severely damaged part of the wound spot, which is obviously lighter in color than the wound spot, slightly concave in edge and clearly demarcated from the wound spot. The front and back of necrotic spots are parasitized by bacteria, resulting in small black spots. On a few branches with obvious exposure, light taupe burn spots can also appear.
Prevention and control methods In the hot summer season, using reed curtains and other things to shade the sun can effectively prevent sunburn. If it is potted camellia, it can be moved to a cool place to avoid direct sunlight. In the hot and dry season, we should increase the irrigation times, constantly replenish the water needed for plant transpiration, or try to cool down and reduce water transpiration, such as spraying water on the leaves and spreading grass on the ground. Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer or less nitrogen fertilizer during the high temperature period, and apply some potassium fertilizer appropriately to avoid the branches and leaves being white and long, tender and easy to be burned. In the construction of garden green space in high temperature areas in summer, if camellia is needed, it should be planted in cool places.
6. Iron deficiency yellow leaf disease of camellia
Symptoms are mainly manifested in the young leaves of new shoots. At first, mesophyll turned yellow, but both sides of veins remained green, which led to the loss of green on the leaf surface in the form of green mesh. With the development of the disease, the yellowing degree of leaves is aggravated, the whole leaves turn yellow, and the leaf edge is scorched, causing deciduous leaves. When iron deficiency is serious, the top of the new shoot will die.
Control methods Improving soil and releasing fixed iron are the fundamental measures to control yellow leaf disease. Appropriate supplementation of soluble iron can treat yellow leaf disease trees.
7, tea yellow moth
The symptom is also called tea caterpillar, which belongs to Lepidoptera and Coccidae. In severe cases, it can eat camellia leaves and so on. , and can damage the cortex and buds of buds. The poisonous hairs on the larvae will cause itching and redness of the skin after human contact. Morphological characteristics: Adult male moths are 6-8 mm in length and 20-28 mm in wing spread ... Female moths are 9- 13mm in length and 26-35mm in wing spread. The front and rear wings of the male moth are brown and the black scales are sparsely distributed. The front edge of the front wing is orange, and there are 1 orange spots on the vertex angle and buttock angle, and there are two black spots on the vertex angle and macula. There are two yellow and white horizontal bands in the middle of the wings, and both ends are bent. Oval oblate, pale yellow. The diameter is about 0.8 mm, the egg mass is oval, and the surface is covered with yellow-brown fluff. Larvae length10-25mm. The head is yellow-brown, shiny and with brown spots. The body is yellowish brown and cylindrical. There are several black tumors on the back and side of each segment, and yellow poisonous hairs are born on the tumors.
Prevention and control methods ① When the larvae are overgrown, the insect leaves can be removed. Don't touch toxic hair when picking it. (2) At the initial stage of larval occurrence, spraying any insecticide of 90% dichlorvos, 50% malathion EC, 25% imiphos EC and 50% cartap EC for 65,438+0,000 times, 80% dichlorvos EC for 2,000 times or 2.5% deltamethrin EC for control.
8. tea moth
The symptoms of the disease, also known as curtain moth and triangle leaf curl moth, harm camellia, tea and camellia oleifera. The tip of the leaf is rolled up to the back of the leaf to form a triangle worm bag, and it lives in the bag to feed. When transferring other leaves, wrap them separately and eat them. Generally, a bag contains 1 worm, and occasionally a bag contains 2-4 larvae. When the larvae mature, they bite a hole in the insect bag and climb out, and move to the lower old leaves near the main vein or the back of the adult leaves to cocoon and pupate. Generally, a leaf has 1 cocoon, and some leaves have 2-3 cocoons.
Control methods artificially kill larvae in triangular bracts. Spraying any pesticide 1000 times of 80% dichlorvos EC, 50% phoxim EC, 50% phoxim EC or 10% permethrin EC at the initial stage of larval hatching.
9. Tea aphid
Symptoms mostly occur in Guangdong, Guangxi and Yunnan, and are distributed in tropical Asia, North Africa, Central Africa, Southern Europe, Oceania and tropical and subtropical North America. Harmful tea, camellia, camellia, cocoa, coffee, willow, banyan. The damage is caused by adults and nymphs gathered on the back of young leaves and twigs, as well as buds and buds. Often make the branches and leaves shrink and harden, so as to die, but also induce coal disease or attract black mold to breed, so that the branches and leaves turn black.
Agricultural control is combined with pruning in winter, and branches with eggs or damaged branches are cut off to reduce the population base of overwintering insects. In the growing season, remove the damaged and irregular new buds by removing the seeds or smearing the buds. Reduce the feed of aphids to reduce the number of insects. Protection and Utilization of Natural Enemies In the season of high temperature, rapid reproduction and many natural enemies, we should try not to spray or spray less, or spray selective pesticides, so as to do little harm to natural enemies and avoid killing them. Or focus on spraying the trees that are seriously damaged by aphids to protect natural enemies. In trees with a few natural enemies, aphids can be eliminated by artificially introducing and releasing natural enemies such as ladybugs and lacewings.
When the enemy is not enough to control aphids on the day of chemical control, it should be sprayed as early as possible in spring to avoid spreading, spraying to protect new buds in May-June and spraying to protect autumn buds in August. It can be mastered that spraying can be started when a small amount of aphids are found on 25% of new shoots.
10, lateral polyphagous mites.
Symptoms mainly harm young leaves and stems. The injured part is yellowish brown or grayish brown. When seriously damaged, the leaves curl along the outer edge to the back of the leaves, the mesophyll becomes thicker, the leaves become hard and brittle, and the tender tips are twisted and deformed. The morphological characteristics of female adult mites are oval. Length 170-249 microns, width11-164 microns. Pale yellow to orange yellow, translucent. Oval. Length 100- 1 10 micron. Colorless and transparent, it will be light green when hatching, and there are small white wart processes arranged vertically on the surface of the egg, with 6-8 wart processes in each row. The newly hatched young mite is nearly oval, milky white, light green after feeding, prismatic afterbody, obviously segmented tail, conical ventral end, bristles 1 pair. Three feet. If the length of the mite is oval and the length is 150 micron, the fragment at the end of the mite disappears. Four feet.
Prevention and control methods include seedlings, scions, cuttings, etc. It should be checked carefully. If this mite is found to be parasitic, it must be introduced and planted after prevention and control. The control agent can be used with reference to the field control agent. In the occurrence period, 40% dicofol EC, 800% fenpropathrin WP, 400% chlorfenapyr WP, 1500% dimethoate EC or 1000% dichlorvos EC can be used.
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