Song Dui said infrared ray.

Clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties The black belt towel of "feather fan black belt towel" written by Su Shi, a poet in Song Dynasty, is a kind of picture towel, which is generally considered to be woven with ribbons. Because it is said that Zhuge Liang took it, it was named "Zhuge towel". The shawl, that is, wearing only silk scarves without a crown hat, began in the late Eastern Han Dynasty. It continued until the Wei and Jin Dynasties and was still very popular. It also had a certain influence on men's first clothes in Tang and Song Dynasties. The crowns and hats in Wei and Jin Dynasties are also very distinctive. Towel-shaped bags were still popular in the Han Dynasty, but slightly different from the Han Dynasty, the bags were raised after being placed, and their volume gradually decreased to the top, so they were called "flat-topped bags" or "small crowns". Small crowns can be used up and down, and the north and south are connected. If you put a cage towel on this crown, it will become a "cage crown". Cage crown was the main crown ornament in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, which was used by both men and women. Because it is made of black lacquer spun yarn, it is also called "lacquer sarong crown". In addition, there are several styles of hats: a "white high hat", "it is uncertain, or has a roll, or a low skirt, or a high gauze house, or long ears"; A "sudden riding hat", "Today's Hu Mao, with hanging skirts and curtains, covered the remaining hair", and so on.

The picture on the left shows Dai Xiao's official attendants (pottery figurines unearthed in xiaohongmen outside the central gate of Nanjing, Jiangsu). In the middle picture, an aristocratic man wearing a halter crown (stone carving of cave temple in Gongxian County, Henan Province). The picture on the right shows a drummer wearing a roll hat (colored portrait brick unearthed in Deng County, Henan Province).

Clothing in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties There are two forms of clothing in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties: one is the clothing style of Han nationality, which was inherited from Qin and Han dynasties; First, ethnic costumes, attacking the North Pass. The clothing of Han men mainly includes shirts. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and dresses. According to the custom of the Han dynasty, anyone who calls it a robe must have a cuff and a mouthpiece. Don't take off your shirt, the cuffs are spacious. Shirts are not bound by clothes and other departments, so the clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties became more and more extensive and became a custom, which has always influenced the clothing in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. From princes and celebrities to Li Shu people, wide shirts and big sleeves are the most important. This situation can be seen from the paintings handed down through the ages and the unearthed figures. In addition to shirts, men's wear also includes robes and skirts.

The picture on the left shows a scholar with bare chest and abdomen (painted by Liu Ling). The picture in the middle is a scholar with a bun, a wide shirt and bare chest. The picture on the right shows a scholar wrapped in a towel and wearing a wide shirt. (Brick-printed murals of the Southern Dynasties unearthed from Xishan Bridge in Nanjing, Jiangsu)

Clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties Women's clothing in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han Dynasties, and absorbed the characteristics of minority costumes, and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, coats and flannel, with skirts under them. Most styles are tight at the top and loose at the bottom, with tight body parts and enlarged cuffs. The skirt is pleated, and the hem is long and loose, thus achieving a handsome and chic effect. Coupled with rich jewelry, it embodies luxury and beauty. Men's wear is mainly crotch pleats and crotch.

On the left is a woman wearing a tattooed robe (lacquer painting screen of Northern Wei Dynasty unearthed from Sima Jinlong's tomb in Datong, Shanxi). The picture on the right shows a man wearing a small crown and a hip (pottery figurine in Jingxian County, Hebei Province).

Scholars in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties wore Guan Lianghe shirts (part of Gu Kaizhi's "Luoshen Fu Tu"). The picture of Luo Shen Fu is a long scroll painting based on Cao Zhi's Luo Shen Fu. Luoshen is the god of Luoshui. According to legend, she was the daughter of the ancient emperor Mi Xi. Cao Zhi expressed his sadness, anguish and hesitation after being lovelorn in Fu. The image of Luo Shen depicted in the picture is a popular costume in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, no matter from hairstyle or costume. Men's clothes are more contemporary, and they usually wear shirts with big sleeves. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. In addition, the waiters in the picture often wear halter crowns, which are similar to those unearthed in the tombs of the Northern Dynasties, but earlier than other materials. It can be seen that the halter crown did not come from Hu Customs, but was first popular in the Central Plains, and then gradually spread to the north, becoming one of the main crown styles in the Northern Dynasties.

Women's bun in Wei and Jin Dynasties

Women's hair styles in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties are different from those in the previous generation. Bao Ji, which was popular in Wei and Jin Dynasties, was a kind of fake bun, which was specifically described in Bao Jiming by Jin Chenggong. Its bun is inlaid with gold ornaments, and each has its own strict system, which is not allowed to be used by unmarried women. Ordinary women not only have different hairstyles, but also tie a bun. However, this kind of bun is more casual, and the decoration on the bun is not as complicated as that on the cover bun, so it is called "gently inclined bun".

This picture shows a woman wearing a bun (pottery figurines unearthed from Mufu Mountain outside the central gate of Nanjing, Jiangsu Province).

Warrior armor of Wei and Jin dynasties

Due to the frequent wars in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the armor of Wei, Jin and samurai has developed greatly on the original basis. Typical ones are sleeve armor, crotch armor and bright armor. Generally speaking, the sleeve nail is made of fish scale nail plate or turtle back nail plate, which is connected back and forth and sleeved on the shoulder. Wear a long tassel on the top and ear protectors on both sides. Two-crotch armor suits are close to two-crotch shirts, and the material is mainly metal, but there are also animal skins. According to records, there were "two pieces of flat towel, purple shirt, wide-mouthed trousers and gold crotch armor" and "two pieces of flat towel, crimson shirt, wide-mouthed trousers and silver crotch armor". Wear two crotch armor, in addition to wearing a pocket, you must wear pants pleats, with few exceptions. Bright armor is a kind of armor with metal round protection on the chest and back. Wear a belt around your waist and big pants. This kind of armor was more widely used in the last years of the Northern Dynasties, and gradually replaced the shape of hip armor.

The picture on the left shows a warrior wearing a hat and armbands (a pottery figurine of the Western Jin Dynasty unearthed in Henan). The picture on the right shows a warrior wearing bright armor (pottery figurines unearthed in Luoyang, Henan Province).

Wei Jinlong Guanda sleeve shirt

Men in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties usually wore long-sleeved shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. The image of the halter crown is similar to that unearthed in the tombs of the Northern Dynasties, but the time is earlier than other materials. It can be seen that the halter crown did not come from Hu Customs, but was first popular in the Central Plains, and then gradually spread to the north, becoming one of the main crown styles in the Northern Dynasties.

This picture shows a shirt with large sleeves and a sarong crown.

Weijin women's dress

Women's clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and absorbed the characteristics of minority costumes. It is improved on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, women wear shirts, coats and skirts, which are mostly frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight bodies and enlarged cuffs. This skirt is a pleated long skirt with a loose hem, so it has achieved a handsome and unique effect. Coupled with rich jewelry, it embodies luxury and beauty.

This painting shows a lady wearing a cheongsam.

Weijin guizu men's wear

Clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties Men in Wei, Jin and Northern Dynasties generally wore big sleeve shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.

This picture shows a noble man, wearing a rolled beam crown and a robe (part of Gu Kaizhi's "Lienvtu")

Fu map of Luo Shen in Wei and Jin Dynasties

The image of Luoshen depicted in the costumes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was popular in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, regardless of hair style or costumes. Men in Wei and Jin Dynasties generally wore long sleeve shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. This picture shows the nobles wearing big sleeves with rolled beams and crowns, and the attendants wearing cage-crowned shirts (part of Gu Kaizhi's "Luo Shen Fu Tu").

Casual clothes of Wei and Jin emperors

The image of Luoshen painted in the casual clothes of the emperors in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties was a popular costume in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, no matter from the hairstyle or the costume. Men in Wei and Jin Dynasties generally wore long sleeve shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. In the picture, the emperor wears a white gauze hat and a wide-sleeved fox fur (shaped like a big sleeve shirt) with hair outside. Holding one's wishful thinking in the palm of one's hand is also a custom favored in the Southern Dynasties. (Yan Liben's Kings of Past Dynasties).

Weijin Guan Ren clothing

The official clothes of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties; men in the Wei and Jin Dynasties generally wore long-sleeved shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. The crowns and hats in Wei and Jin Dynasties are also very distinctive. Towel-shaped bags were still popular in the Han Dynasty, but slightly different from the Han Dynasty, the bags were raised after being placed, and their volume gradually decreased to the top, so they were called "flat-topped bags" or "small crowns". Small crowns can be used up and down, and the north and south are connected. If you put a cage towel on this crown, it will become a "cage crown". Cage crown was the main crown ornament in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, which was used by both men and women. Because it is made of black lacquer spun yarn, it is also called "lacquer sarong crown".

1 The picture on the left shows the literati wearing Guan Liang's big sleeves (part of Gu Kaizhi's female figure). The second picture on the left shows a scholar wearing a cage crown and big sleeves and an attendant wearing a small crown and narrow sleeves (handed down pottery figurines, the original is now in the British Museum). Third from the left. The picture on the right shows a man wearing a cage crown and narrow sleeves (blue glazed pottery figurines of the Western Jin Dynasty unearthed in Jinpenling, Changsha, Hunan). The fourth picture on the left shows the literati wearing Korean Guan Liang (the glazed pottery figurines of the Western Jin Dynasty unearthed in Changsha, Hunan Province)

Weijin scholar-bureaucrat clothing

Scholars in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties wore scarves and wide shirts (part of Sun Weigao). Gao was an outstanding figure painter in ancient China. Although it was written by Sun Wei, a painter in the Tang Dynasty, it has a strong charm of Wei and Jin Dynasties. The picture shows four scholars sitting cross-legged on the carpet, wearing small crowns or scarves and wide shirts. There is a waiter next to everyone, wearing wide-sleeved clothes. From the perspective of picture composition and character arrangement, it is the same as the brick-printed mural of "Seven Sages of Bamboo Forest" unearthed from the tomb of the Southern Dynasties in Xishanqiao, Nanjing. The costumes, figures and daily necessities of the characters are typical of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties.

There are two forms of literati clothing in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: one is the clothing style of Han nationality, which inherits Qin and Han dynasties; First, ethnic costumes, attacking the North Pass. The clothing of Han men mainly includes shirts. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and dresses. According to the custom of the Han dynasty, anyone who calls it a robe must have a cuff and a mouthpiece. Don't take off your shirt, the cuffs are spacious. Shirts are not bound by clothes and other departments, so the clothing in Wei and Jin Dynasties became more and more extensive and became a custom, which has always influenced the clothing in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. From princes and celebrities to Li Shu people, wide shirts and big sleeves are the most important. This situation can be seen from the paintings handed down through the ages and the unearthed figures. In addition to shirts, men's wear also includes robes and skirts.

This picture shows a scholar wearing a lapel robe in a bun or a towel (part of the school book map of Northern Qi Dynasty).

This picture shows a scholar wrapped in a towel and wearing a tunic (part of the Book of Northern Qi Painting School)

Northern dynasty official uniform

On the left side of the casual clothes of officials of the Northern Dynasties, there is an official wearing a riding hat and a small sleeve shirt (pottery figurines of the Northern Dynasties). The picture in the middle shows a man wearing a riding hat, his trousers are pleated and his right arm is bare. The picture on the right shows an official wearing a riding hat and a big sleeve shirt (painted pottery figurines unearthed in Beibaidao, Cixian County, Hebei Province). There are several styles of hats in the Wei and Jin Dynasties: one is a "white high hat", which is "indefinite, or has a rolled load, or a lower skirt, or a gauze high house, or a black veil with long ears"; A kind of "sudden riding hat", "Today in Hu Mao, hanging the skirt and covering the belt is also a legacy of covering the hair". During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, general men's wear mainly consisted of big sleeves, crotch pleats and two crotch. Men usually wear shirts with big sleeves. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion. In the picture, the official's clothing looks like a cloak. Although there are sleeves on both sides, it has no practical use. Judging from the image data, this kind of clothing was still very popular in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and both men and women could wear it.

Female Hairstyles in Wei and Jin Dynasties

Female cosmetics in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties The female hairstyles in Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties are different from those in the previous generation. Bao Ji, which was popular in Wei and Jin Dynasties, was a kind of fake bun, which was specifically described in Bao Jiming by Jin Chenggong. Its bun is inlaid with gold ornaments, and each has its own strict system, which is not allowed to be used by unmarried women. Ordinary women not only have different hairstyles, but also tie a bun. However, this kind of bun is more casual, and the decoration on the bun is not as complicated as that on the cover bun, so it is called "gently inclined bun". In addition, many women imitate the customs of ethnic minorities in the western regions, and tie their hair in a single-ring or double-ring bun up to the top of their heads. There are also people who wear a bun or a bun. In the Southern Dynasties, due to the influence of Buddhism, women often split their hair in the middle of the top and made it into a vertical ring, which was called "flying bun", which was first popular in the court and then popular among the people.

This picture shows a woman wearing a double-ring bun (part of Gu Kaizhi's "Luo Shen Fu Tu").

Decorate the bun with hairpins, hairpins, tweezers or flowers.

This picture shows a woman stepping on a bun (part of the painted screen of the Northern Wei Dynasty unearthed from Sima Jinlong's tomb in Datong, Shanxi)

This picture shows a woman's ring bun or bun (a colored portrait brick of the Southern and Northern Dynasties unearthed in Deng County, Henan Province).

Gu Kaizhi's "A Picture of Women's History" decorated by women in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties is a colorful silk book, which was drawn according to the article "A History of Women" written by Zhang Hua, a writer in the Western Jin Dynasty. There are nine parts in the whole volume, and this is one of them. This picture shows a lady sitting on the floor and a maid arranging her hair. The maid (standing person) combs her hair into a high bun with walking jewelry on it and hangs a lock behind the bun. This hairstyle appeared as early as the Han Dynasty, and became popular again after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, becoming the main hairstyle for women. It is also depicted in another picture of Gu Kaizhi, Lienvtu. (Gu Kaizhi's Proverbs of Women's History).

A historical picture of women in Wei and Jin Dynasties

Wei Jin za fu

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the traditional deep clothing system was no longer adopted by men, but it was still worn by women. Compared with the Han dynasty, this kind of clothing is very different. At the hem of the clothes, add some ornaments, usually silk fabrics. It is characterized by a triangle with a wide top and a sharp bottom, which is layered on top of each other. In addition, because the ribbon protruding from the apron is relatively long, it walks like a swallow. In the Northern and Southern Dynasties, this kind of dress changed again, removing the ribbon that mopped the floor and lengthening the "dovetail" with sharp corners, so that the two were integrated.

This picture shows a woman wearing all kinds of clothes (part of Gu Kaizhi's "Lienv Tu").

This picture shows the hanging clothes of miscellaneous clothes.

This picture shows women's wear with mixed patterns (based on silk paintings and murals handed down from ancient times).

Women's skirts in Wei and Jin Dynasties

Women's tops and skirts in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, women's dresses in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties were mainly wide, characterized by a pair of lapels, a waist, wide sleeves, cuffs, skirts and hems with different colors, a striped skirt and a ribbon at the waist. At that time, women's skirts included other skirts besides colorful ones. This picture shows a woman wearing a double-breasted coat and a long skirt with wide sleeves and a double-breasted coat and a long skirt.

Blouses and skirts in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties are characterized by ladies and attendants wearing long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes murals) and long sleeves and striped skirts (Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes donor murals restored). On both sides of the tunnel in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and below the Buddhist stories, there are often rows of neat men and women, ranging from a few inches to a few feet high. Among them, there are both powerful and prominent officials and ordinary civilians. These figures all gave money to build caves, and they painted their own statues on the walls, indicating that all the bodhisattvas and Buddha statues in the caves were provided by them, so they were called cave owners, also known as providers. Many providers are equipped with inscriptions, indicating the year number, title, ranking, surname and so on. The clothes painted in this painting were universal at that time, and the pottery women unearthed in Luoyang, Henan Province also wore this kind of clothes. It is characterized by double-breasted waist, wide sleeves and sleeves with different colors at the cuffs. A striped skirt. At that time, women wore skirts, besides sunglasses, there were other skirts. Jin people's Old Story of the East Palace recorded the costumes of the Prince and Princess, including red gauze double skirts, gauze double skirts, cinnabar cup skirts and other famous colors. It can be seen that the production of women's skirts has been very delicate, and the colors of materials are also different.

Weijin Xinjiang brocade shoes

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, women wore shoes and boots, including leather shoes, silk shoes, Ma Xie shoes and brocade shoes. Anyone who marries a woman's house first puts on silk shoes as a gift. The forms of shoes are limelight shoes, gathering clouds shoes and five shoes; Song has a heavy platform; Beams have split-pointed shoes, vertical wind shoes, water head shoes and five-color cloud shoes; Chen You fished Hua Fei's first shoe; There were pigeons in the Western Jin Dynasty. Some are named after shapes, while others are named after colors. Among them, all kinds of shoes are not necessarily worn by women, such as limelight, standing wind, five-color clouds and flying heads of rain flowers. Platform shoes, both men and women, because there was no difference between men's football and women's football in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. There are also shoes with rust patterns, such as "embroidered shoes" in Lu Ji's "Weaver Girl's Complain"; Shen Yue has a pattern of "Brocade and Shoes". In addition, clogs were also worn by women at that time.