How long can the root bonsai grow new roots?

It often takes years and decades to create a bonsai with high artistic quality. It is undoubtedly the wish of bonsai lovers and producers to create a beautiful and energetic wound in a short time. Practice has proved that the pile can be formed in a short time through artificial aging and antique technical treatment.

The technical measures are as follows:

1, material selection every winter or early spring, plant materials suitable for bonsai can be selected from barren hills, cliffs and other places. Due to poor growth conditions and many low and deformed trees in these places, it is easy to form strange old piles with low branches and beautiful posture, and it is easy to transplant and survive.

2. Cutting branches and raising crowns is an indispensable measure in pile landscape modeling. The operation method is: when the branches are cultivated to a certain thickness, they are cut short to produce oblique branches or transverse branches. The degree of pruning depends on the growth characteristics of trees. After that, the second stage and the third stage were cultured in turn. Through continuous pruning, the crown can meet the needs of stump modeling.

3. Tie the branches of the tree with iron wire and other materials to make it grow in the required bending posture. After their growth direction is determined, the hemp thread is removed. Banding should be carried out in the right season, otherwise it is easy to break branches.

4, pry the bark in the season of vigorous plant growth, insert a sharp knife into the cortex of a certain part of the trunk, gently pry up along the phloem, so that the bark and xylem are slowly separated, so that a tumor scar can be formed on the trunk, and it has a Gu Gan state.

5. Dig it dry. Drill some small holes in the main viewing surface with a knife and a wooden drill, and then fill them with wet soil, so that the small holes gradually rot into big holes. In this way, a natural landscape full of holes can be formed.

6. Tear off the trunk or branches that need to be thinned from the stump. Don't cut it with scissors, tear it off from the base by hand, or take it down by climbing, so that the reserved trunk will have natural splitting scars and will be attacked by wind and thunder. When the plant returns to normal growth, apply a little hydrochloric acid to the scar, and the residual limb will look more pale and natural.

In addition, in order to make the trunk quaint, you can also use a carving knife to carve grooves on the trunk. After a period of growth, the trunk can also appear withered spots and natural exposed skin landscape. Or chop, wring, peel, etc. Make the trunk scarred, this is the shape of Gu Zhuo, which has experienced many vicissitudes. Interested friends may wish to give it a try.

Where should the stump bonsai be placed?

Where to put the stump bonsai, besides ventilation, we must also consider the lighting problem. Each tree species has different requirements for light, but it can be roughly divided into two categories: light-loving and shade-tolerant. Therefore, it is necessary to decide whether bonsai should be placed in the sun or in a cool place according to the requirements of light.

For example, if bonsai is placed in a sunny and well-ventilated garden or patio, trees will thrive, leaves will be green, flowers will flourish, and bonsai will be fully ornamental. On the other hand, if it is placed under the shade of a tree or under the porch of a courtyard, due to insufficient sunshine and air and no rain and dew, trees often grow poorly, and the leaves turn yellow and fall off easily, which may lead to the death of trees for a long time. It is a shade-tolerant tree species, such as Podocarpus, Camellia and so on. If summer is placed in direct sunlight, the tips and edges of the leaves will be burnt, and even the whole leaves will be burnt.

The requirements of bonsai trees for light can be judged from the following aspects:

First, conifers and pine trees like light more; Some cypress trees with flat or scaly leaves, as well as bamboo cypress and Podocarpus are shade-tolerant.

Second, evergreen broad-leaved trees such as boxwood, holly, camellia and so on. Most of them are shade-tolerant; However, deciduous broad-leaved trees such as plum blossom, crape myrtle and pomegranate are fond of light.

Third, broad-leaved trees with thick leaves or leathery leaves are mostly shade-tolerant; Broad-leaved trees with thin and large leaves like light.

Fourth, small shrubs under wild forests, such as willow in the snow and bamboo in the south, are mostly shade-tolerant; Tree species that originally grew in the wilderness or sunny slopes, such as Ji Mu and Bromus, are fond of light.

Root treatment technology of stump bonsai

In nature, some old trees along streams in deep forests have lost their lives due to the impact of water, and their roots are often exposed on the ground, which is very strange. In order to make the stump bonsai produce this form and improve the ornamental effect, the method of root lifting can be used to achieve this goal.

(1) First plant the stump in a deep pot with a high height, so that the main root and lateral root are higher than the pot surface, and then cover the root into a steamed bread shape to prevent the root from being exposed. After one year, the topsoil is removed layer by layer with a small rake, and one layer is removed every six months to one year, so that the root system is gradually exposed to the soil surface to avoid damaging the tender tissue of the root system due to sudden exposure to the soil. After 2-3 years, the roots will be lifted up year by year to make them bare.

(2) Selecting a cylinder with a depth of 40-50 cm by the method of cultivating roots in cylinder sand, filling the lower part of the cylinder with 10-20 cm culture soil, then planting tree species with lateral roots and adventitious roots in the cylinder, and filling river sand in the cylinder to strengthen fertilizer and water management. After the pile root grows in the cylinder and extends into the culture soil layer, the river sand on it is gradually taken out for 3-5 times. Every time you dig sand, the interval is half a year or a year. After the roots grow out, you can remove the stump from the cylinder and plant it in a shallow basin. When planting, the shape should be properly renovated to expose the roots of the basin.

(3) It's best to plant the stumps in deep pots by leveling and rooting, so as not to expose the root surface of the pots. After planting, the roots of the plants will continue to extend to the depths. After curing for a period of time, raise the kettle every time you water it, let the water rush to the roots, and gradually wash away the soil at the roots to expose the roots. Combined with turning pots, the cultivation position of roots is improved, so that the exposed part of roots is gradually increased and the shape is gradually improved, which can be used for viewing.

Ring stripping and root changing method for stump bonsai

The method of girdling and changing roots is to use the high-pressure girdling technology commonly used in the asexual reproduction of flowers and trees to urge the stumps that need to be transformed to send out double roots at the appropriate position of the trunk. After a period of cultivation, the original roots of plants were cut off together with the defective parts, thus achieving the purpose of renewal. It is a new technology advocated in the whole root technology of stump bonsai in recent years, and it is also a common whole root technology The measures are introduced as follows.

I. Period and conditions of circumcision

The method of girdling and changing roots requires that the plants must grow in a healthy state before the new buds germinate in spring (usually in mid-February).

Second, the required tools and equipment

Hand saw, cutting machine, chisel, hammer, wire cutters, barbed wire, a copper wire (or aluminum wire) with a diameter of 4MM, mountain mud and sand.

Third, the surgical steps of girdling and root replacement.

1) Observe the whole plant, select the appropriate root changing position and mark it;

2) Carve a groove with a width of 4㎜ and a depth of 3㎜ at the root changing position with a hand saw, a cutter and a chisel (not necessarily completely girdling), and try to keep the section smooth;

3) Embedding copper wire or aluminum wire into the girdling groove and knocking with a hammer to make it fit the trunk, which is convenient for promoting the generation of new roots;

4) Cut the barbed wire into a cylinder with a diameter of 3-5 times that of the trunk, and bury the lower end in the basin (if necessary, fix it through the leaking hole at the bottom of the basin). Pay attention to make the upper plane exceed the girdling plane by more than 3㎝. Spread a layer of coarse sand on the bottom of the cylinder, then fill in the mixed soil of mountain and sediment, water it after a little vibration, and finally fill it on the girdling plane to about 3㎝;

5) Keep the bonsai in a sunny and slightly cool place for maintenance. Try to keep the residual limb at 15-25℃ and 70-90% humidity. Starting from June, rotate the pot of 180℃ every half month to make the roots of plants uniform (be careful not to put the bonsai in the place with the back facing the sun completely, otherwise it will affect the roots);

6) In August, you can turn over the topsoil, observe the rooting situation, and often adjust the orientation of bonsai to further promote the generation of new roots. From the middle and late September, the topsoil was taken out several times to expose new roots and promote their maturity and hardening. At this time, the new roots are flourishing, and the white root tips can be seen from the barbed wire. Because barbed wire restricts the further development of strong roots, it also promotes the development and production of weak roots, lateral roots and more new roots. Pay attention to maintenance as usual in winter, and take some insulation and anti-freezing measures appropriately;

7) In February of the following year, the soil and copper wires on the barbed wire are removed, and the sprouted uniform roots are classified and pruned; Most of the roots are cut into 5㎝ long; Roots that grow too strong are about 3㎝; Fine roots can be left uncut. At the same time, the original girdling ditch was widened downwards by 2㎝, deepened by about 1㎝, and copper wires were tied on the upper part of the ditch to further reduce the nutrient supply of the old roots to the plants and promote the growth of the roots, and then barbed wire was re-enclosed and cultivated with mountain mud;

8) By February of the third year, when the fibrous roots of the newly cut roots have grown on the barbed wire, they can be taken out of the pot, cut off the trunk from the rootless part at the lower end of the copper wire, take out the copper wire, and implant it into a clay pot for careful maintenance;

9) After potted for one month, light fertilizer can be applied. After several years of careful cultivation, the root replacement operation has been basically completed after the new roots grow thick and can initially expose the earth and stone.

The above steps and requirements can be flexibly changed and adjusted according to the thickness of tree species and trunk. After proper treatment, stumps with roots can also be cultivated (such as split-pile bonsai). ).

Fourth, the advantages of stripping and changing roots.

1) The trunk and roots of plants are the main artistic beauty of stump bonsai. In the long-term cultivation process, the trunk and exposed roots can be prevented from being damaged for various reasons;

2) Some small defects of plants when they are young will become obvious as time goes on, until they affect the ornamental effect of bonsai. After adopting this method, the main physiological defects of bonsai plants can be reduced, such as flaked roots (commonly known as chicken feet, which means that the exposed roots of bonsai develop to one side), high waist (which means that the trunk is too long and uninteresting), thin base (commonly known as small feet, which means that the root neck of plants is thinner than the upper trunk, which is the most common and common defect of grafting) and flat stem.

Control of leaves in stump bonsai

Among the tree species of stump bonsai, lobules have high ornamental value, and the size of leaves is determined by the pre-genetic factors of plants. If leaflets are obtained from the original species, besides grafting to change varieties, it is also necessary to control the leaves to realize lobulation.

The way to control the blades is to control the water. Before and after spring germination, the soil in the basin should be kept dry for one to two months, and after the buds grow and the leaves turn black, sufficient water and fertilizer should be given. In late summer and early autumn, the temperature begins to drop, autumn buds will come out, and water control should also be carried out. Especially if the potted soil is kept dry for a short time, the new buds will obviously become smaller. Picking the core at the third leaf after budding can not only control the leaves, but also keep the proportion of stump components, and the effect is better. Water control needs to be repeated many times during the germination of new leaves. If you are not careful, too much water will give up all your efforts. If you have too little water, trees will lose water and old leaves, which may even be life-threatening. Therefore, we must pay great attention to observation when controlling water, and judge the water content of basin soil every day. When the old branches and leaves are unable to droop, the leaves are dark and moderately yellow, they must be watered to prevent further defoliation and dead branches. The amount of watering should be strictly controlled for a few days, so as to be aware of it, which is also one of the operating methods of landscape bone undressing. Partial shedding of old leaves is the result of plants adapting to drought and protecting their physiological functions. Only when the whole plant has serious scorched leaves and dead branches, and leaves do not fall or fall less, is the truly life-threatening state of water loss.

During water control, it failed to cover or transfer in time when it rained, and leaf control failed. For some tree species, Xiaomei's leaves can be obtained by leaf cutting. In order to welcome important guests, festivals and exhibitions, leaf cutting can also be used. Control trees should be pruned before germination in spring and autumn, or when the leaves are too large in spring; The time to cut leaves before the exhibition is mostly one month to one and a half months before the exhibition. Cut off the whole leaf and the longer branches. Proper watering and fertilization before cutting leaves will make the leaves grow back within one month, and the new leaves will be significantly smaller than the previous leaves. I have a friend who picks leaves every spring and summer to cultivate lobules and cut them at the same time. After sprouting in early spring, she picked her heart and the leaves on the tree were lovely. If the new leaves are still too big after picking leaves in early spring because of variety problems or other factors, you can pick new leaves while strengthening water and fertilizer, and you must make new leaves smaller. My rock bonsai is to cultivate small leaves as big as broad beans in this way, and the smaller ones are only as big as soybeans. Banyan leaves are as small as soybeans and broad beans.

If water control method is combined with leaf cutting method, the effect will be better.

Leaf cutting method is suitable for the vigorous growth period of this tree species and the early stage of spring, summer and autumn with strong metabolic function, and must be carried out on mature trees, not suitable for young piles under three years. After picking leaves, it will affect the photosynthesis of trees in a short time, thus affecting the transport of nutrients to elm trees. It must be carried out during the leaf growth period, and it can only be carried out in late spring and early summer under special circumstances.