The Temple in the Sky-Zheluo Temple

I've never been so shocked by a place,

There will be such a magnificent temple group at the top of the mountain at an altitude of 4800 meters.

The real city of the sky,

The closest belief to heaven.

In the valley leading to Zedrol Monastery, the ice-eroded peaks after the melting of snow-capped mountains are rugged. Looking from the foot of the mountain, there is a small house behind the peak, which is the famous Zedrol Monastery.

Zezhol monastery is too remote. Even in remote Tibet, it is still considered an inaccessible place. In fact, it is not only remote, but also hidden in the depths of Nyainqentanglha Mountain, which is as vast as the sea and at the height of the dangerous peak high into the clouds. I think only Tibetans who naturally like to travel around the world can go to such a place. It used to take a long time to climb the national highway 3 17 at the foot of the mountain. All the needs in the temple can only be transported by believers with manpower and yaks. In recent years, a simple highway has been built to reach Zedrol Monastery, but it needs an suv with a relatively high chassis to get there.

We got off the potholed and narrow national highway 3 17, and crossed a mountain gate sandwiched by two mountains from a narrower path. The two mountains are high and steep, with only a road and a stream in the middle. I entered the mountain gate and immediately went up the mountain. The steepness of the mountain road can only be described by the ladder.

The moment I stepped out of the car door, my heart almost jumped to the height of my eyes: Zedrol Temple stood on the steep fan of the top of the mountain at an altitude of more than 4,500 meters, with its back against the towering tinder and facing a series of towering snow ridges in Nyainqentanglha. This magnificent weather is breathtaking and rare in the world. I don't know whether it's because of the high altitude or other reasons. I feel that my whole body's blood is rushing to my head, and a rare force has caught me. I see. This thought flashed and almost made people cry.

In Tibetan, "Zizhu" means six rock peaks in a mountain, namely Ruyibao Peak, Wuyingbaili Peak, Huiwu Peak, Chanbao Named Peak, Zhijian Peak and Eternal Peak. The Chinese pronunciation of the word "Wan" is called "Yongzhong" in Tibetan. In all sects of Tibetan Buddhism, it is clockwise and right-handed, and only in Bonism is it counterclockwise and left-handed. Zezhol Monastery is built between these peaks, and some monasteries and practice rooms are hung on the cliff like photos, with meditation holes on them. A group of vultures crouched on the highest mountain, overlooking temples and sentient beings. Monks dressed in simple and solemn Bonism vestments lined up to welcome our rare guests. Trumpets, drums and cymbals resounded through the sky, shaking Shan Ye. Some of the believers who came to worship bowed down in succession, and some stood proudly, like statues, with majestic snow peaks in the background.

Bonism, commonly known as "black religion", is the primitive religion prevailing in ancient Tibet, the essence of the elephant-male civilization in ancient Tibet, and the national religion believed by 33 generations of Tibetan kings in the early Tubo Dynasty. It is said that its upper part is in Ali, Tibet, and then it spreads from west to east to all parts of Tibet, even as far away as Tibetan areas in Yunnan and Naxi areas. Dongba religion of Naxi nationality in Yunnan is deeply influenced by Bonism. Liu Feng in Zizhu is the lower gate of Buddhism, which shows the importance of Zheluo Temple. Later, the Tubo dynasty promoted Buddhism, suppressed benzene and even destroyed Buddhism. As a result, the forces of Bonism moved eastward, and the remote Zheluo Temple naturally became the stronghold of Bonism.

Bonism initially worshipped the gods and natural objects of heaven and earth, mountains and rivers and Shui Ze, and attached great importance to sacrifice, jumping, divination and explanation. And the content of the blood sacrifice. Later, the powerful Tubo dynasty promoted Buddhism and suppressed benzene, and introduced a large number of eminent monks and classics from India. After a long-term contest between Buddhism and Bonism, the power of Bonism gradually declined, so it gradually absorbed a part of Buddhism, changed Buddhist scriptures into Bonism scriptures, and became a sect similar to Tibetan Buddhism. However, Tibetan Buddhism has also absorbed a large number of rituals, gods and contents of Bonism, making it unique in the world.

I have long heard of all kinds of Bonism, and I have only seen traces of Bonism in a few small temples before. This time I finally came to its holy land, and I couldn't help but admire it. The curtain embroidered with the "swastika" symbol lifted scarlet and entered the hall. There are unique murals and thangkas everywhere, as well as statues of the founder of Bonism, Dunba Xinrao, and other Bonism gods. Murals, thangkas and statues all have unique blue edges, and monks' robes and hats also have blue edges. Of course, there are all kinds of rare objects and treasures in the temple. There are even bronze cymbals and a Buddha statue given by the emperor during the Xuande period of Daming, and the famous imperial book given by Emperor Kangxi to Sangjilimba, the Lama of Zheluo Temple at that time.

After I turned to the temple, I found that the back of Zheluo Temple was leaning on the Jinqu Valley, and the raging red river meandered away until it reached the foot of the snowy mountain in the distance. The river bank is a red mountain range with magnificent lines. That kind of broad vision makes people's brains wide open. This is really a place where you can embrace and accept the whole world. It is said that as early as two or three thousand years ago, when Buddhism was far from being introduced into Middle-earth, the pioneers of Bonism chose to build temples here to preach. What kind of faith, perseverance and intuition did those Bonini teachers find such a place? If you practice here, you can't achieve extraordinary results without extraordinary spirit.

The hollow peak is the third peak of Zizhu Mountain. It is said that the hole was left by Dapeng bird when it climbed the mountain. Because like a hanging mirror, we can see the heart of the world and the emptiness of the world, so the third peak is also called "seeing the peak". Today, it is still a clean and simple place, advocating Bonism.

Zheluo Temple is located on Zizhu Mountain, a famous holy mountain in Dingqing County, Changdu District, eastern Tibet, with an altitude of about 4,800 meters. It is one of the highest temples in Tibet and one of the oldest and most important Bonism temples in Yongzhong. Zheluo Temple was founded 3000 years ago, initiated by the second generation of Tibetan king Mu Chi Zanpu, and was founded and passed down by the first master Mu Bang Sa Dong, who is now the 43rd.