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During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the formal dress system of court officials was also very complete, forming a hierarchical system. During the reign of Emperor Kai of Sui Dynasty, the form of coronation in Northern Zhou Dynasty was finalized after reform, and the Tang Dynasty followed the customization of Sui Dynasty. In the fourth year of Tang Wude, an imperial edict was issued, stipulating that the emperor's clothes were *** 12, of which 6 were crowned according to the Zhou Dynasty. There are 10 kinds of robes. When ministers wear formal clothes, they will use four other kinds of crown clothes besides crown clothes. These crowns are only worn at grand ceremonies. On other days, all the officials of the emperor wore uniform royal clothes, official uniforms and uniforms. The court clothes are the clothes worn at the court meeting, and only officials with more than seven items wear them. Public service, also called provincial service, is basically the same as Hanbok, but simpler. The uniform is mainly a shirt, which is a robe with a round neck, narrow sleeves and left and right slits.

At the end of Sui Dynasty, Yang Di ordered the colors to distinguish the clothes of officials and civilians. Officials with more than five grades are allowed to wear purple robes, officials with less than six grades use red and green, small officials use cyan, and civilians use white. Butchers and businessmen are only allowed to wear black clothes, and soldiers wear yellow robes.

Clothing, food, shelter and mode of travel

There are still differences in the laws of the Tang Dynasty on the shape, material and color of clothing. In the fourth year of Wude (62 1), Tang Gaozu initially determined the clothing system, and stipulated four clothing systems: sacrificial clothing, court clothing (also known as costume), public clothing (also known as provincial clothing) and regular clothing (also known as swallow clothing). Among them, the official uniform stipulates that red and yellow are for the exclusive use of the empire, and since then the yellow robe has become the symbol of the emperor. Later, Emperor Taizong, Emperor Gaozong, Dezong, Wenzong, etc. It also ordered that the clothing differences between civil and military officials and ordinary people be clearly defined. Generally speaking, the clothes of aristocratic bureaucrats and rich children are brocade, and ordinary people can only wear coarse cloth, and there are strict grade restrictions on clothing.

The fashion of men's wear in Tang Dynasty can be roughly divided into two stages. From the early Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty, it was popular to wear trousers, pleats, round neck, narrow sleeve robes, right skirts, belts, foot boots or soft leather boots. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, men's wear in the upper class returned to the wide robe and long sleeves in the Qin and Han Dynasties, with long skirts and high shoes, but the trousers and pleats were still popular in the lower class.

Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was gorgeous and varied from front to back, but there were several basic styles: skirts, aprons, blouses and blouses. Women's dresses in the early Tang Dynasty were mostly long skirts with narrow sleeves and bow shoes or high heels, that is, the style of "small head shoes and narrow clothes". With the development of social economy, the close relationship between ethnic groups and China and foreign countries, especially the liberation of women's thoughts, the modeling of women's wear in Tang Dynasty tends to be exposed and open. In the early Tang dynasty, women in the upper class went out a lot and were completely banned. Since the Yonghui emblem, curtains, hats and skirts have gradually become shallow and uncovered, and scholars have followed suit. Soon, Hu Mao got on his horse and galloped in a bun, or paraded through the city in men's clothes and boots. In the early days of Tianbao, "aristocratic gentry like to wear Hu clothes, while women are narrow-sleeved", and there are "pink breasts and half-hidden snow" and "snow on their chests". After the mid-Tang Dynasty, narrow-sleeved clothes gradually became obsolete, and instead, wide-sleeved clothes and women's clothes became fatter and fatter.

Women's hairstyles in the Tang Dynasty are very diverse, and the beauty lies in the high bun. Hairstyles include cloud bun, spiral bun, inverted bun, semi-rotating bun, triangular bun, double-ring Wang Xianfa bun, Uygur bun and Uman bun. Facial makeup is also very complicated, and the makeup sequence is roughly as follows: lead powder, rouge, yellow graffiti, black eyebrows, mouth fat, face painting, applique cymbals and so on. Among them, there are more than a dozen eyebrow styles such as Yuanyang, Xiaoshan, Wuyue, Sanfeng, Guazhu and Yuesuo.

The diet of the Tang Dynasty was more varied than that of the previous generation, with wheat, millet and rice as the staple food, and a variety of miscellaneous grains in the middle. Wheat pasta is the most important food, which is eaten by both high and low. There are the most kinds of cakes, including soup cakes, Hu cakes, steamed cakes, pancakes, rice cakes, pies and five-color cakes. Steamed bread has also been made, called sitting nails, bean nails or steamed bread, which are mostly set for sacrifice. There are also biscuits, cold food utensils (jiaozi) and wonton in the staple food. Non-staple food mainly includes onions, leeks, garlic, ginger, spinach, bamboo shoots, apricots, pears, dates, melons, grapes and other fruits and vegetables. Meat is also very common, especially in wealthy families, where cows, sheep, pigs and chickens are the mainstay, and the water and internal organs of animals are also cooked into various delicacies. Fish products such as clams, mandarin fish, shrimp and crabs have also entered people's diet. Seasoning condiments include salt, vinegar, sauce, pepper and sucrose.

Wine has become a necessity in the life of the Tang people, and drinking is very popular. There are many famous wines all over the country, such as Xi Shiqiang, Lang Guanqing, Apoqing, Xinfeng, Qiujia, Huxian and so on. There are many hotels and flag pavilions in urban and rural areas, and the business of brewing and selling wine is booming. In Chang 'an, there is also a hotel run by Hu Ji, which specializes in Hu wine and has become a place for literati to travel and drink.

Tea has become an indispensable thing in the Tang Dynasty. From the early years of Kaiyuan, the wind of drinking tea swept across the country, and there were many tea shops all over the country, selling fried tea, and the tea ceremony prevailed. Lu Yu's Tea Classic is the first book in China to study tea ceremony. Tea has become a good tribute and gift. Tea tasting and tea fighting have become literati. "Between the fields, hobbies are especially keen", and ordinary people can't live without tea.

A notable feature of the diet in the Tang Dynasty was the prevalence of Hu food, especially after Kaiyuan, when it became popular to cook Hu rice. The aforementioned Hu cake is a kind of Hu food, which is the result of ethnic integration in the Tang Dynasty.

Due to the different political and economic status, the living conditions in the Tang Dynasty were also very different. The palace where the emperor lived was the most luxurious. In the early Tang Dynasty, Tai Chi Palace in Chang 'an was the place where the emperor discussed and lived. There are five halls: Taiji Hall, Liangyi Hall, Ganlu Hall, Yanjia Hall and Chengxiang Hall. Since the eighth year of Zhenguan (634), Emperor Taizong thought that his father Li had built a new palace in Dongying Taiji Palace, which was first named Yong 'an Palace and later renamed Daming Palace. In the second year of Longshuo (662), Emperor Li Zhi suffered from wind arthralgia, which made Taiji Palace "damp". He built Daming Palace and moved the political center here. Daming Palace is rectangular in the south and trapezoidal in the north, with Danfengmen, Hanyuan Hall, Zhengxuan Hall, Chenzi Hall, Penglai Hall, Hanliang Hall and Xuanwu Hall as the central axis, and there are several affiliated halls on the left and right, which are magnificent. After Xuanzong ascended the throne, he built a large-scale Xingqing Palace, which organically combined the palace with the garden. The main palaces and pavilions are Xingqing Hall, Datong Hall, Huacai Xianghui Building, Jingjin Hall and Chenxiang Temple. At this point, the emperor of the Tang Dynasty built three palaces in the capital, which were called the "Big Three". After Wu Zetian moved to Luoyang, she also built Sanyang Palace, Xingtai Palace, Tang Ming and Xanadu. In addition, the Tang Dynasty also built many branches, such as Jiucheng Palace, Yuhua Palace and Cuiwei Palace.

In the Tang Dynasty, from princes and nobles to ordinary people, there were restrictions on the situation and scale of private houses: namely, princes' houses did not have double arches and caissons; Three products, nine in five halls and five in three doors; Five products, five halls and seven, three doors and two; Six or seven projects, five in three rooms in the lobby, four in Shu Ren, two at each door. However, more and more houses were built by the royal clan and the high palace ministers, competing for luxury. After the Anshi Rebellion, the "wooden demon" once prevailed. General Ma Yi built a nave and spent more than 200,000 yuan. In contrast, ordinary people can't afford bricks and tiles, and most of them live in huts. Sometimes there is a fire, and it often suffers from house leakage and continuous rain.

The traffic in the Tang Dynasty was very developed, with the land traffic network centered on Chang 'an and the waterway traffic network consisting of the Grand Canal and the southern water towns extending in all directions. At the same time, the post system is complete, and the land post, waterway post, carriage post and waterway post are equipped with ships, which provides very convenient conditions for public and private travel and business exchanges.

Horse breeding in Tang Dynasty experienced a process of decline and prosperity. In the heyday of Kaiyuan, not only the government owned many official horses, but also the number of private horses was considerable, and the carriage became an important means of transportation. Obviously, the emperor had five wheels (jade wheel, golden wheel, elephant wheel, leather wheel, wooden wheel) for riding, including root ploughing wheel, safety wheel, four-looking wheel, and ceremonial south guide wheel, drum wheel and egret wheel. Empresses have heavy fasting, tired fasting, Zhai Che, and so on. The crown prince and princes also have their own cars. Folk carriages are mainly used for transportation.

Besides wagons, ox carts and donkey carts are also widely used. Shoulders and eaves are also important means of transportation. Shoulder joint is also called shoulder joint, soft joint and soft joint, and eaves are also called bamboo joints and cages, which should be carried by shoulders.

wedding and funeral customs

In view of the scarcity of registered permanent residence and economic depression after the war in the late Sui Dynasty, the Tang government formulated the marriage policy of early marriage and early childbearing in order to increase the population and develop the economy. In the early years of Zhenguan, Emperor Taizong issued an imperial edict in time to encourage Shu Ren to get married, stipulating that both men and women should get married at the age of 20 and 15. In Kaiyuan, it was stipulated that fifteen men and thirteen women were the boundaries of marriage.

There are many ceremonies that must be observed in the wedding in Tang Dynasty, including accepting gifts, asking names, Naji, accepting gifts, inviting dates and welcoming relatives, which are called "Six Rites". Nacai is the man's client who sent a bride price to his wife's house and expressed his willingness to marry her. Asking the name is a formal age exchange between men and women, including the date of birth, his three generations and the name, title and residence of the priest, commonly known as Xiaoding. Naji is a kind of clothing used by men to give women engagement gifts, mainly for women themselves. Levy means that the man gives the money and coins set at the time of marriage to the woman's family, which is also called "collecting money, giving money and hiring a big one". The date of the invitation is that the man writes the planned wedding date on the post and prepares a gift for the woman's family. If he accepts the gift, it means that he agrees to the wedding date. If not, he must choose another auspicious day. Kissing is drum music, etiquette and colorful games led by the groom. To marry the bride and return. Marriage is generally characterized by extravagance and waste.

Most marriages in the Tang Dynasty still obey parents' orders and matchmakers' words, but both men and women are not obedient and at the mercy of others, but have certain independent choices. Influenced by the legacy of the Six Dynasties, paying attention to family status is still an important concept of marriage in the Tang Dynasty. At the same time, in an open society, the concept of chastity is relatively weak, divorce and remarriage are common, and some women even get married three or four times. He has a good relationship with unmarried girls, and many people have married women and found new lovers.

The wind of reburial prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, and it became more and more fierce, from princes and nobles to the people. In the Tang Dynasty, the funeral system still followed the ancient etiquette, which was divided into five types: withering, Cui Zi, meritorious service, small service and fine linen. Withering is the heaviest of the five clothes, and the clothes are made of the thickest linen. Without trimming, the damaged part will be exposed. All sons and unmarried women should take Wei as their father, wife as their husband and great-grandson as their grandfather, and serve for three years. Cui Zi's clothes are made of coarse cloth with neat edges. All the great-grandparents served in Cui Zi for five to three months after their death. Made of cooked flax. Cousins, unmarried cousins, married aunts and sisters, and married women who are uncles, parents, brothers, etc. , have made great contributions, for September. Small work clothes are also made of cooked flax, which is smaller than big work clothes. All great-grandparents, great-grandparents, great-grandparents' parents and brothers of the same ancestry will regard it as March. During the mourning period, you are not allowed to give up enjoyment, you must resign from all official and private affairs and mourn and cry every day. However, if the official business is urgent, you can also terminate the mourning period in advance and go to the official to see things. This is called "saving" and "grabbing feelings".

Funerals in the Tang dynasty are often not just funerals, but funerals after death, and they are to be buried for a period of time, mainly waiting for the loss of relatives and friends. The length of burial varies from days, months or even years. You must wear a white shirt when mourning, take five clothes according to your relatives, and burn more paper money when offering sacrifices. Before burial, it is necessary to predict the good and bad luck of the cemetery and investigate the geomantic flow of the cemetery. This is the so-called auspicious choice. There are as many as 120 kinds of related burial books. At that time, in Tubo, Uighur, Turkic and other ethnic minority areas, there were also customs of martyrdom, cremation and celestial burial.

Entertainment and sports entertainment

The highly prosperous feudal economy, ethnic integration and the development of Sino-foreign relations in the Tang Dynasty contributed to the rich and colorful cultural and entertainment activities in the Tang Dynasty, which became an important part of social life.

In addition to drama, music and dance, drama in the Tang Dynasty developed greatly. The three most famous musicals are Da Mian, Pull the Head and Step on the Mother. They are mainly based on stories, played by actors, and performed by singing, dialogue and facial expressions. Popular plays are>, < Feng Guiyun >>,<& ltSumozhe >> and so on. Other operas include joining the army and puppet shows. The drama of joining the army is dominated by Bai Ke, with occasional songs and dances. It was performed by two actors, one who joined the army and the other who was a stork. When performing, you are witty, stupid, humorous and full of fun. Puppet show, also known as Kuileizi, is a kind of puppet show, which is often performed in urban and rural areas and is deeply loved by the broad masses of the people.

Acrobatics in the Tang Dynasty is generally called "hundred acrobatics", which can be divided into animal-imitating skills, animal training skills, rope skills, pole skills, strength skills, pill sword skills, handstand skills, illusion and so on according to different forms and skills. Animal-like skills mainly play animals to dance, such as dragon and lion dances. Animal training skills mainly focus on training animals to dance, such as dancing horses, elephants and monkeys. During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, there were horses and chariots dancing, and during the Mid-Autumn Festival, they danced downstairs in the diligent government. Rope walking is the skill of rope walking. The performer pulls a very straight rope in the air and performs various thrilling actions. Pole vault skills are divided into 2 minutes: top pole and climb pole. It is a traditional project, focusing on performance strength, balance and aerial skills. Performance skills are characterized by great strength, such as lifting a tripod and lifting weights. Maruko skills are performing maruko and jumping sword. Those with high skills can receive four swords in their hands and five pills in their feet. Inverted technique is a kind of soft and hard qigong performance. Illusions include swallowing knives, breathing fire, yannu and so on.

Ball games. There are percussion and cuju. Treadmill, etc. The most popular one is the bow. Jutting, also known as hitting the ball and playing ball, is a kind of sport that rides on a horse and hits the ball with a stick. Bowing was first introduced from Tubo. The way of competition is on a wide and flat field. A player is riding a horse and holding a stick, fighting for a ball. Starting is the best way to win or lose. Polo courts were built in the court of the Tang Dynasty, Kyoto and other major cities. Monarchs, officials and scholars are crazy about it, and many women are also involved. Polo sports climax after climax, lasting for a long time. Cuju, also known as stepping on the bow, is an ancient football sport, which has reached a considerable level in the Tang Dynasty. In addition to the winning or losing competition between the two teams, there is also a solo exhibition competition, and the two are also deeply loved by all walks of life.

Chess activities. There are also go, chess, chess and so on. At that time, it was always called "chess game", in which Go was the most prosperous. Weiqi was a gateway of 289 in the early Tang Dynasty, and it developed into 19 and 36 1 after the middle Tang Dynasty, which greatly increased the changing space of Weiqi and was completely consistent with modern Weiqi. Chess originated in the pre-Qin period and was still evolving in the Tang Dynasty, so it was not as popular as Go. However, both Go and Chess are based on competitive intelligence. During the Han and Wei Dynasties, chess became popular, winning mainly by skill, with certain rules of the game, similar to modern entertainment chess and billiards games.

Popular ten-person sports activities in the Tang Dynasty include tug-of-war, gladiator, swinging, archery, boating and so on. In the Tang Dynasty, tug-of-war was called "tug-of-war drama", and its scale was very large. During the competition, there was a lot of noise and songs. Corner arrival is also called wrestling and sumo wrestling, which is today's wrestling. When Xuanzong gave a banquet, he set up a corner to watch it, which was very lively. Swings, also known as colored ropes and colored ropes, are especially popular with women and children. Du Fu's poem "Wan Li is a common plant" reflects the prevalence of the wind of non-swing.

Festival custom

There are many festivals, rich activities and warm atmosphere in the Tang Dynasty, which add colorful colors to the social life of the Tang people.

New Year's Eve and New Year's Day. New Year's Eve is the last day of every year. New Year's Day is the first day of every year, that is, the first day of the first month, also known as January Day, Zhengri Day and Jacky. One is the end of the year, and the other is the beginning of the year, which is highly valued by the Tang people. In the Tang Dynasty, New Year's Eve and the morning of New Year's Day went hand in hand, forming the custom of "guarding the old age", that is, people stayed up all night from New Year's Eve to the dawn of New Year's Day. At this time, thousands of families get together, hold banquets, dance and entertain, burn paper money, worship ancestors, and set off firecrackers to ward off evil spirits. At that time, setting off firecrackers was to burn dried bamboo on the fire to make it brittle, so it was also called blasting rod.

Shangyuan Festival. The fifteenth day of the first month is Shangyuan Festival, which is later called Lantern Festival. Because the night of Shangyuan is mainly about watching lanterns, it is also called Lantern Festival. Chang 'an is the most wonderful night in Shangyuan, and all kinds of colorful lanterns compete for each other. People watching lanterns came out of the city, surrounded by people, and the scene was warm. In order to promote its peace and prosperity, Xuanzong changed the Shangyuan Festival to three nights, starting from the fourteenth night of the first month and lasting for three nights. On the Lantern Festival, a lot of singing and dancing activities were held, among which singing was the most important. People flocked, holding hands, stepping on the ground for the festival, singing and dancing, and the lively atmosphere was crazy.

Cold Food Festival and Tomb-Sweeping Day. From winter to the next 105 days in the summer calendar, it is a cold food festival. Fire is forbidden for three days, and only cold food can be eaten, so it is also called "Cold Food Festival". Tomb-Sweeping Day is the last two days of the Cold Food Festival. Because of the close relationship between the front and the back, people in the Tang Dynasty often spend two festivals together. In festivals, besides cold food, going to the grave has become a custom. When you come back from sweeping the grave, you should wear a willow hairpin and say, "If you don't wear a willow in Qingming, a beauty will become a head." Many sports activities are also carried out during festivals, such as bowing, swinging and cockfighting.

Shangsi Festival. The third day of March in the summer calendar is Shangsi Festival. In addition to practicing, people mainly go for a spring outing and go for an outing. "Wool washing" means that people come to the pond in Zhu Jiang during festivals to wash dirt with spring water, so as to drive away diseases, evil spirits and monsters, and have fun in the water. Going for an outing means that people come to the suburbs together to look for spring flowers, entertain friends, or confide in each other, or sing songs and enjoy the beautiful spring scenery of nature.

Dragon Boat Festival. Dragon Boat Festival is on May 5th in the summer calendar, also known as Duanyang Festival, Dragon Boat Festival and Double Ninth Festival. During the festival, people not only eat zongzi, drink realgar wine, tie colored silk, hang sachets, but also hold dragon boat races and play with herbs. Dragon boat races are especially popular in southern water towns. In the competition, tens of thousands of boats were in full swing, the waves were churning, the boats were struggling to paddle, and the audience shouted in unison, shaking the world and being wonderful and enthusiastic. A hundred schools of thought contend is a competition to see who has many kinds of flowers and plants.

Valentine's Day in China. July 7th in the Gregorian calendar is Valentine's Day in China, the day when the legendary Cowherd and the Weaver Girl Bridge meet. On the night of Qixi, people decorate sacrifices such as wax flowers, melons and fruits, and wine, flicking the strings and praying for heaven. The woman asked the Weaver Girl for help, hoping to have a pair of skillful hands like the Weaver Girl. In the Tang Dynasty, Lin Jie said in a poem, "See Bixiao on Tanabata tonight and cross the bridge hand in hand with the Weaver Girl. Every family watches the autumn moon and wears tens of thousands of HongLing. "

Mid-Autumn Festival. August 15th in the summer calendar is the Mid-Autumn Festival. People in the Tang Dynasty have the custom of enjoying the moon on this night, which is especially loved by literati. Bai Juyi has a poetic day: "The Mid-Autumn Moon is a good month on earth. How about asking people to appreciate it? " . "When enjoying the moon, there are also many feasts and orchestral music, which are full of fun and elegant style.

Double Ninth Festival The ninth day of the ninth lunar month is Double Ninth Festival. During the festival, people hold climbing activities, drink chrysanthemum wine, wear dogwood bags, and give poetry interest and express their feelings. Climbing high is the main activity of the Double Ninth Festival. Climbing high is climbing high, mainly climbing mountains, and climbing cities, stages and buildings. People often use this to express their feelings and ambitions, and the content is healthy and elegant.

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