I once visited the gate of Xi 'an College.

It's a little ashamed to say that the ancient city of ignorance grew up in Xi 'an, and I spent a lot of time in this city. The name Academy Gate is quite familiar. Before I retired, I commuted twice a day and crossed the road dozens of times for more than ten years, but I didn't stop to have a serious stroll. I'm a little sorry about the identity of "Old Xi 'an".

On the afternoon of the weekend before the winter solstice, I invited two girls to hang out at the entrance of the college seriously, making up for years of regret. The time coincides with the blue sky in winter and the sun is shining, but I still feel a little cold without my hands in my pockets.

Starting from the bell tower in Xi 'an city, drive south for more than 1000 meters, and turn east to the inside of the south gate (Yongning Gate), which is Shuyuanmen Antique Culture Street. On the street corner, there is a big archway five or six meters high, full of ancient charm. Above the archway are the three golden characters "Academy Gate", and on both sides are the striking couplets of "Forest of Steles hides national treasures, and the academy nurtures talents". From this couplet, we can smell the cultural weight of Xi 'an.

A small group of people gathered in front of the north gate of the memorial archway, and an interpreter was explaining it to a dozen elderly Japanese tourists. Take a closer look, there is a stone tablet under the signboard, with a brief introduction of the academy door on it. Pay close attention to the conciseness of the introduction, and the changes of Sangyuan in thousands of years of history are integrated into hundreds of words. The inscription reads: "Shuyuanmen Historical and Cultural Street starts from cypress forest in the east, reaches Shuncheng Lane in the south (Yongningmen to Wenchang Men Site Ruins), reaches Nanjie in the west and Ximucheng in the north. It turned out to be the ancestral temple of Chang 'an Imperial City in Tang Dynasty. After Han built the city in the late Tang Dynasty, it gradually became a residential lane. During the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, it was named' Shuyuanmen Street' because of Guanzhong Academy. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Shuyuanmen was the cultural center of Xi. After the founding of New China, Guanzhong Academy became the campus of Xi 'an No.5 Middle School and Xi 'an University of Arts and Sciences, and Shuyuanmen Street also became a residential area. Since the 1990s, the beilin district Municipal Government has carried out many transformations on Shuyuanmen Street and Sanxue Street, and gradually formed a 570-meter-long Shuyuanmen Ancient Culture Street, showing the cultural features and traditional buildings of Xi in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. In 2009, it won the title of' China Characteristic Commercial Street'.

This plot is adjacent to the Ming City Wall Scenic Area. There are not only the Baoqing Temple Pagoda in the Tang Dynasty, Guanzhong Academy in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Yu Youren's former residence, Xi 'an Beilin Museum and other heavyweight cultural relics, but also many secluded traditional residential buildings. The shops on the street sell many cultural tourism commodities, such as Four Treasures of the Study, jade articles, celebrity calligraphy and painting, and craft gifts. It is a famous traditional cultural tourism and cultural commodity consumption block in Xi. "

From the archway to the east, enter it, and look around, there are imitation Ming and Qing shops next to each other on both sides of the street. The street seems to be very short, and it is expected to end at a glance, that is, two or three hundred meters. The street is about ten meters wide and the driveway is five or six meters wide.

When I walked into the gate of the academy, I felt that the bustling city had turned a corner here and suddenly quieted down. The street was quiet and I couldn't hear the shouts. I couldn't help slowing down and lowering my voice. Perhaps this street has been so elegant since ancient times. There are no noisy advertisements on paved roads and no clean shops on small streets. Although it is winter, it may be weekend. There are dozens of people looking up at the upper reaches of the street, and people come in and out of the shop from time to time. When you come here, people seem to have to be more polite. Few fashionable young men and women wander here, most of them are middle-aged and elderly men and women.

The pavements in the small streets are all made in Four Treasures of the Study, including seal cutting printing materials, mounted calligraphy and painting, picture frames, antique fans, grotesque wood and stone, small wood and stone handicrafts, and sporadic antique jade articles. There is also an eight-hole ancient musical instrument with a history of more than 6,000 years, which is the kind of musical instrument mentioned in Jia Pingwa's novel "The Wasted Capital". Being here seems to smell the mellow history and culture.

At first glance, this street is no different from similar streets in other cities. When you savor it carefully, you will still feel different.

It is worth mentioning that although the plaques on the doorsill of the shop are uniform, they have a sense of vicissitudes. There are many famous people with inscriptions, such as Wei Junxiu, Gao Xia, Wu Zuoren, Liu Wenxi, Fu Jiayi, etc., and cultural celebrities Huo and Jia Pingwa, all of which add a lot of value and glory to this small street.

This street runs from west to east. The inscription says it is more than 500 meters long, but at first glance it feels only 200 to 300 meters long. At the end, turn south and then east, all the way to Beilin Museum. There are still 200 to 300 meters, all of which are shops that operate these. This winding street is an ancient cultural pedestrian street in a complete sense, with a length of more than 500 meters.

On the north side of this "end" stands this rectangular ivory natural stone with a height of more than two meters. The stone is engraved with the three characters of "Hao Wentang" written by Shaanxi calligrapher Liu Zidu, which is the crowning touch of this street.

Don't go shopping. Taste these plaques and the calligraphy on this boulder carefully, and you will get drunk.

Just in front of the two shops opposite this stone, there is a live calligraphy performance. Two 60-and 70-year-olds are writing, and several people are reading. In addition to cooing, some people took out two or three hundred yuan bills on the spot and bought the "Mo Bao" with wet ink.

In fact, the gate of the academy is more than just a street. There are several alleys in the middle, and those alleys are also crowded with shops.

These are just superficial senses, and the hidden things may still be in that seemingly inconspicuous shop. In a seal shop where Fu Jiayi inscribed "Yin Shi Xuan", I chatted with the owner Mr. Zeng for a while. Mr. Zeng is an old friend of the late Mr. Fu Jiayi. I asked, is there any truth in this street? Ceng Laoshi said yes. Everything we bought in this shop is true. Look at the "Changhua bloodstone" in that photo, just like the one in this container, it's not fake at all. When it comes to managing India, the old man said that he spoke with strength. He just took more than 50 thousand jobs two days ago, just because people came for our credibility. Just then. A middle-aged man came in, and Mr. Zeng introduced, "This is Fu Jiayi's son-in-law." Mr. Zeng showed his published pamphlet on calligraphy and painting seal cutting. I asked how much it would cost to carve a wire. I replied that two days ago, someone took a small piece of bloodstone to carve wire, and my nephew offered 100 a word. He left because it was too expensive. I came back after more than an hour, and I still want to carve it here. Why? Every family has a different level. Mr. Zeng said that he was the first batch of old merchants in this street. He has operated here for more than 20 years and witnessed the changes of this street. He said it's not as busy as in previous years.

Why is this happening? The author's two old classmates are frequent visitors to the college. Chatting with two painters in their seventies, I learned that many exciting things have happened here in the past few years. There are hundreds of stalls in the middle of this small street. There are all kinds of stalls in the store, and some are not in the store. There are also live calligraphy and painting performances for sale. The scene was quite spectacular, and some people surrounded several floors in front of the booth where they wrote and painted on the spot. Buyers and sellers look at the house and make the street "lively". Most people watch the excitement and broaden their horizons. Some people buy paintings and calligraphy on Taobao, almost every day. Of course, the goods on the stall are mixed, full of true and false goods, not professional and eye-catching. If you blindly listen to the seller's shouting, it is very likely that you will spend a lot of money to buy fakes, and those who know how to do it may really be able to find one or two top-quality products with good quality and low price. Speaking of the live performances of calligraphy and painting, the two old people said with a smile that there are many kinds of Eight Immortals crossing the sea to show their magical powers, such as writing with a brush in the nest, writing with a spoon (spoon) and so on. And all kinds of flowers are in full bloom, how to attract people's attention, how to attract people's attention, but it is lively. A few years ago, the management department standardized the management order at the entrance of the bookstore and banned all those booths. Some entered the store, and some were never seen again.

I asked, are there any masters or famous artists in the calligraphy and painting in the academy? The old man who has been visiting the library for twenty or thirty years said that he can't say no, but there are not many. Asked why, I replied that the Academy Gate is a tourist attraction, with low-grade calligraphy and painting, few famous artists and many amateurs. High-end things are in the opposite alley, Temple Street. However, everything in the library gate is complete, which is incomparable in other places.

Most of the merchants in the academy are foreigners, mostly from Jiangxi and Anhui. They come here to run their business with traditional skills and run their small shops with diligence and wisdom. This is also a regret of Xi people.

We looked around and saw seven or eight grandparents holding the hands of seven or eight-year-old grandchildren and teenage children, as well as middle-aged couples leading their children. Some of them have bought pen and ink, and some are still looking for suitable ones, which makes people feel relieved. Looking at this scene, the inheritance of Chinese cultural treasures is not worrying about the lack of successors.

The place name of the Academy Gate is inseparable from the Guanzhong Academy inside. Guanzhong Academy was the highest institution of learning in Shaanxi during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and it was also one of the four famous academies in China, ranking first among the four academies in northwest China. According to legend, Feng Congwu, the minister of the Ministry of Industry in the Ming Dynasty, wrote to the emperor that he was "addicted to debauchery politics" and was dismissed from his post and went home. Since then, Feng Congwu has devoted himself to studying Yi Li, giving lectures at Baoqing Temple and holding a "joint lecture" with Wang Keshou, then the chief executive of Shaanxi Province. Thousands of people came to attend the class, and the chief executive of Chang 'an County ordered that a piece of land be set aside in the temple to build the Guanzhong Academy. Later, Chang 'an County School, Xi 'an Anfuxue School and Confucian Temple (where the forest of steles is now located) were successively built in the east, forming a cultural street.

Shortly after the completion of Guanzhong Academy, eunuch Wei Zhongxian destroyed Donglin Academy, and Guanzhong Academy was also affected. During the reign of Emperor Xizong, he ordered the demolition of Guanzhong Academy. In the third year of Kangxi, Guanzhong Academy was rebuilt. During Guangxu period, it was rebuilt into Shaanxi Normal University Hall, which became the highest institution of learning in the five northwestern provinces at that time. During the Republic of China, it was changed to a provincial normal school until liberation. There are Shaanxi Normal School and its affiliated primary schools in Guanzhong Academy.

There is also the memorial hall of Yu Youren's former residence, a pioneer of China's modern national democratic revolution, a veteran of the Kuomintang, a modern politician, educator and calligrapher, and the "Hai Xia Heaven and Earth Memorial Hall" of Mr. He, a master of Chinese painting.

It's a pity that Guanzhong Academy and Yu Youren's former residence are closed.

There is Baoqing Miaohua Pagoda on the north side of the west exit of the pedestrian street. Baoqing Temple was built during the Renshou period of Emperor Wendi of Sui Dynasty (60 1-604), and its original site was Anrenfang, Daxing City, Sui Dynasty. In Tang Wenzong, the five-color brick tower was used in the temple, so Baoqing Temple is also called Huata Temple. In the Five Dynasties, the temple was destroyed by fire, but the tower survived. In the second year of Jingtai in the Ming Dynasty (145 1), the tower was moved to this site to build a temple. During the Wanli period (1573- 1620), Feng Congwu gave lectures here. In the first year of Yongzheng (1723), the monk Wen Tian rebuilt the temple pavilion. The pagoda of Baoqing Temple is about 23 meters high and has seven floors. Its plane is hexagonal, and there are stone carvings of Buddha statues in Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties. The existing stone tablet was rebuilt in the second year of Ming Jing (145 1).

We strolled around this small street, chatting while strolling, without hesitation. We stopped to admire the threshold inscribed by celebrities at the door for a while, and then went into the shop to see the calligraphy and painting on display. We were in a good mood, and we didn't like visiting the street we loved so much for twenty or thirty years. It feels so good, beautiful, cool and comfortable!

An article on the Internet said that the once glorious Chang 'an City has quietly gone away, leaving only a silent back. What you said is true. Walking in this small street, I feel that I am in a long culture and hundreds of years of vicissitudes, which is different from other cities. I feel the richness and richness of the ancient city's cultural heritage, and I can't help but feel proud of Xi people.

Unconsciously, more than two hours passed, slowly turning from the corner to the end of the street, and then turning back from the end of the street. Our footprints and figures stayed in this small street, covered with winter sunshine, and slowly left with deep attachment. Looking back at the pagoda of Baoqing Temple, Yu Youren's former residence seems to be quietly telling the story of the past. There seems to be the sound of books in Guanzhong Academy, and the two rows of shops on the side street still open their doors quietly to welcome guests ... I think I will revisit my old place.

A thousand years ago, Xi was the imperial capital of 13. There are not only places of interest such as Qin Brick Hanwa Ancient Wall, Big Wild Goose Pagoda Bell and Drum Tower, Forest of Steles, but also some places unfamiliar to foreign tourists. Inadvertently saying a place name can lead to hundreds of thousands of years of historical stories, such as the entrance of the academy. Any one of them can wring out a handful of cultural water and pour out a cup of aged cellar with heavy charm.

20 17. 12.26. 18: 10.