Beijing Fortune-teller _ Beijing Fortune-teller Novel

Enter the "country of girls" and uncover the mystery of "men don't marry women don't marry"

"Every faraway place/has a temptation for me/not for beauty/but for legend" (in Wang Guozhen). Lugu Lake, located on the edge of Liangshan Mountain in Sichuan, at the junction of Sichuan and Yunnan, is famous for its beautiful natural scenery and the legendary Mosuo "xia" marriage custom, and has become a "bright spot" for tourists to visit here. The magical legend aroused our strong desire to find out, so in late spring and April, we set out from Chengdu and entered this place known as "the last daughter country in the world". Through two days' on-the-spot investigation, we not only enjoyed the beautiful natural scenery of Lugu Lake, but also got a preliminary understanding of the unique ethnic customs of Mosuo people.

The "good photographers" at the wedding bridge are all out.

On the evening of April 6th, we traveled by train for 10 hours, arrived in Xichang, the capital of Liangshan Autonomous Prefecture, and had a rest for one night. The next morning, we changed to the shuttle bus from Xichang to Lugu Lake. After more than seven hours of arduous trek, we finally arrived at our destination-Lugu Lake at four o'clock in the afternoon.

According to the itinerary, the first scenic spot we watched was the famous walking wedding bridge. Originally named Caohai Bridge, Zouhun Bridge spans Caohai and is more than 300 meters long, which is an important channel connecting the two sides. Mosuo women are called "Axia" in the local dialect, and they pursue "men don't marry, women don't marry". Caohai Bridge is the main way for them to get married, so it is known as "the first love bridge in the world" and is also called "lover bridge" by young people nowadays.

"Wow, it's beautiful!" As soon as we got off the bus, MM colleagues couldn't help cheering for the birds. Everyone was captured by the beautiful scenery in front of them, and they took out their cameras and snapped them crazily.

Near evening, the long figure of the "wedding bridge" is oblique to the grass sea in the sunset, which looks hazy and mysterious. Caohai was dyed golden yellow by the sun, mixed with the light green that has appeared in the middle, bordering on fields and mountains. Long aquatic plants, occasionally showing a few blue pools in the middle, and the reflection of Rouman stretching in the clouds. At this time, several Mosuo girls came to sell us national costumes, and their brown-red faces reflected the afterglow of the sunset, just a touch of bright colors in gold and green. ...

Being in poetry and painting can't help but make people think, as if pairs of young Mosuo "brothers" and "sisters" came hand in hand with light steps, showing us a fascinating wedding journey. Therefore, under the dual influence of legend and reality, handsome guys and beautiful women in the same industry either "scratch their heads" and press the bar, or set up POS in groups of three or five, leaving a "beautiful picture".

The "elder brother" in Chengdu flinched at Guo Zhuang's dance.

After visiting the "Wedding Bridge", everyone visited the "Lama Temple" on the shore of Caohai under the guidance of the tour guide, listened to the Lama's lecture and learned about Tibetan Buddhism. Later, I ate and rested at the Mosuo Style Hotel in Boshu Wharf to save my strength and prepare for the main program of this trip-the bonfire party in Guo Zhuang that night.

Until 8 o'clock in the evening, accompanied by lyrical "Little brother, little brother, it is fate to meet thousands of miles away ..." and "Little sister, see you across the mountain and water ..." In the evening, the bonfire party in the pottery village kicked off.

As soon as we entered the Taocun party, the generosity and enthusiasm of Mosuo people deeply infected us: in the center of the huge quadrangle surrounded by all-wood stacked ovaries, a pile of flaming bonfires set off the night sky, and more than a dozen elegant and slender Mosuo girls wore thick black braids decorated with various small flowers, red Phnom Penh dresses, colorful silk flower belts around their waists, and unique pleated skirts, and handsome brothers also dressed up to greet them. At this time, I saw a tall and handsome Mosuo young man, holding a homemade piccolo and playing cheerful dance music. Handsome Mosuo girls and men in gorgeous costumes are dancing "Mosuo Dance" arm in arm. Warm bonfires, gorgeous national costumes, and hospitable Mosuo friends soon let the slightly cautious tourists put down their bodies and minds, filled with passion, and began to join the dancing team one after another.

The unrestrained and passionate "Acha Dance" jumps and rotates around the blazing bonfire, which narrows the distance between the host and the guest and blends the feelings between nations.

"Gacuo Dance" is a festive and carnival group dance handed down by Mosuo ancestors, and it is also the carrier for Mosuo young men and women to convey their affection and find "little". The girl and the young man hold each other's hands tightly. In the process of dancing, if girls have a crush on young men, or young men have a crush on girls, they will gently dig each other's palms twice. If the other party is interested, they will gently squeeze each other's hands twice, and then both of them will quit sadly, go to the lake for a tryst and get married in the greenhouse. If the other person has no intention, she (he) will hold the hands of the left and right partners together and quit by herself to find the person she likes. The flames danced and flickered in the dark, reflected on the flower beds and the faces of enthusiastic dancers. People kept shouting and dancing "Cough, Cough, Cough ..." Wave after wave.

The person holding my left hand and right hand is Mosuo girl. I don't know if it's psychological. I seem to feel itchy in my palm. Glancing at their faces, they were all red under the bonfire, completely intoxicated with the singing and dancing, and then looking back at other people in the same industry, everyone was dancing or taking pictures, and they were very busy.

During the intermission of singing and dancing, we went back to our "buddies", exchanged views on the beauty of Mosuo and teased each other to see who could bravely attack and find a beautiful A-mei to marry, but they were all "verbal revolutionaries" who only talked but didn't practice. A few people who had enthusiastically expressed their desire to be a happy "Adu" before, when faced with the real Mosuo Ami, those eager "desires" suddenly died down, and no one really put them into action until the end of the party, but the charm of Mosuo girl still made these "Agger" from the city want to pose and compete to take photos with the most beautiful Ami as a souvenir.

The picturesque scenery of boating mother lake

After more than ten hours of trekking and singing and dancing that night, everyone was extremely tired. They didn't get up until about eight o'clock the next morning, ate breakfast in a hurry and began to swim around the lake.

Walking through the long trestle, we came to the grass beach of Boshu Wharf, boarded the unique canoe of Mosuo people-pig trough boat, and a mirror-bright lake was displayed in front of us. Lugu Lake is like a shy girl who unveiled her beautiful veil to us.

If the previous doubts about Lugu Lake are partly due to the mysterious marriage custom of Mosuo people that "men don't marry women". Then when you wander between the green mountains and green waters, you will have more pure and religious awe-Lugu Lake, the sacred mother lake of Mosuo people, which also gives the foreigners who come here for sightseeing a spiritual baptism.

In the eyes of Mosuo people who are centered on motherhood, God is the goddess, mountain is the mother mountain, and lake is the mother lake. Lugu Lake is praised as Mother Lake by Mosuo people. It is 2690 meters above sea level, with a water area of 58-8 square kilometers and a depth of more than 90 meters. The transparency is as deep as 12 meters. On the island, peninsula or seawall connected with the island, it is graceful, with lush trees and beautiful full of green, as if it were in a wonderful landscape painting, which makes people linger. Boating on the blue waves, walking slowly among seaweed flowers, like driving into a fairyland, is like a dream, and really enters the beautiful fairy tale world. Lugu Lake in the early morning is like a Mosuo girl who just woke up from her sleep, lazy and mysterious, with a variety of customs. In the slight drizzle, the misty lake looks deep and quiet. After the rain cleared, the sun shone on the lake through the cracks in the clouds, giving off a little silver light. The mountains on both sides of the Taiwan Strait and the white clouds in the sky are reflected on the soft, sparkling water, just like brocade, with unique style and bright colors. Let people really appreciate the gentle and broad maternal beauty of Lugu Lake. Swing the pig trough boat, I can't help but put my hand into the crystal clear lake, and the cool and sweet feeling overflows my heart. Time seems to have solidified, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, without troubles and desires. I only have this beautiful scenery in my eyes, and my soul has been purified and baptized.

About 50 minutes by boat from Boshu Wharf, we arrived at Sun Moon Lake, a small island in the middle of the lake. We got off the boat and climbed the mountain road step by step, and a temple appeared in front of us. In addition to the Lama Temple, there are cultural relics such as the last Tusi Cemetery and Manidui in Levibi Temple. Standing on the island, looking around, green mountains, clear water, blue sky and white clouds are displayed one by one. At this time, the sun reflected on the water, green and golden temples, boats coming and going on the lake, and waterfowl hovering low, forming a harmonious and beautiful picture, as if they were in a fairyland on earth! At this time, I deeply felt the incisive assertion of American explorer Joseph Geke: "This is a place only suitable for immortals to live."

Visit Mosuo home and feel the national charm.

After enjoying the poetry and painting scenery of Caohai, Liang Hai and Lihu Island, more than four hours passed. Arrive at Lugu Lake Scenic Area in Luoshui Village, Lijiang, Yunnan at noon.

I heard a friend say that Lugu Lake and Yunnan, Sichuan are two worlds. Yunnan scenic spots are vividly called "developed capitalism" because of their early government development, advanced software and hardware and good tourism environment. However, in recent years, Sichuan scenic spots have only begun to develop, and the conditions are poor, which is dubbed "socialism" by tourists. When I came to the border of Yunnan, I felt it was really lively here. The shops in Luoshui Village are dense and big, and their facades are different. All kinds of tourist supplies are dazzling, the prices are cheaper than those in Sichuan, and the merchants who sell things are also very kind. So after dinner, everyone strolled into Mosuo street, where they fell into the water, and chose their favorite jade articles, bracelets and local products. When the tour guide gathered to visit Mosuo's family, almost everyone put their hands on their shoulders and gained a lot.

The house called "Mosuo House" and "Mu Lengzi" visited is located in the center of the street town. The quadrangles on the second floor and the first floor are spacious. The whole architectural style is beautiful and concise, and the interior is clean and bright. It is a typical Mosuo family.

According to the Mosuo girl who explained to us, there are nearly 20,000 Mosuo people living by Lugu Lake, and most of them still maintain the custom of "matriarchal family" and "going out to get married". They are called the only matriarchal tribe in the world and are the "living fossils" of human society. Mosuo people live in wooden quadrangles, including mother houses, flower houses, straw houses and prayer halls. , with the original architectural style and specific functions; Implement the marriage system of "men don't marry, women don't marry, and don't leave home", and form a matriarchal family without husband-wife relationship, mother-in-law relationship and sister-in-law relationship. Children take their mother's surname, mothers are in charge of financial power, uncles are in charge of etiquette, and family members live in harmony; Mosuo people believe in Tibetan Buddhism and mother religion, and purify their hearts and pray in religious places such as Lama Temple, Manidui and Jingtang. Traditional festivals such as Mountain Crossing Festival, Sun and Moon Festival and Gem Goddess Celebration, and important life ceremonies such as rice wine, bar mitzvah ceremony and funeral are rich and colorful, with profound connotations and strong national characteristics.

We have a general understanding of the basic situation and national customs of the Mosuo people. Finally, we visited Mosuo Buddhist Temple under the guidance of the tour guide, and listened to the living Buddha explain the origin, development and significance of Buddhism and Tibetan medicine to the economy and society. Others have been treated by living buddhas. Through the visit, we not only increased our knowledge and felt the profoundness of China's minority culture, but also were infected by the unique and magical civilization created by the hardworking and intelligent Mosuo people, and were deeply shocked by their national charm.

At about 4 pm, we ended our tour of Luoshui Village in Yunnan, got on the bus and returned along the road of Lugu Lake Scenic Area. On the way, we visited the village of OkwaMosuo, the observation deck and grandma Leorowi's home. In the evening, we returned to our resident in Sichuan, Boshumoso Style Garden, where we rested all night. At 7 o'clock the next (ninth) morning, we set foot on the way back to Chengdu in the face of drizzle and mist. After a short stay in Xichang, I visited Qionghai, a plateau lake, and returned to Chengdu by train at 6: 30 am on 10. At this point, the trip to Lugu Lake, full of romance, passion and good memories, came to a successful conclusion.

Goodbye, mysterious and beautiful Lugu Lake; Goodbye, tender and affectionate Miss Mosuo; When the mountain and the golden chrysanthemum open, we will "meet with the water across the mountain." Madami-A-mei Jr.; Madami-Lugu Lake!

Precautions:

(1) Axiu-Mosuo people call each other lovers.

(2) The address of the Asha-Mosuo people to their mistresses when they get married.

(3) Adu-the name a Mosuo woman uses for her boyfriend when she walks away.

(4) Daba, the god of wisdom believed by Mosuo people, is equivalent to the bodhisattva of Han nationality.

⑤Madami-moso means "I love you".

6 Mother Lake-Lugu Lake, Mosuo people respect their mother the most, Lugu Lake is a sacred lake in their hearts, so compared with their mother.