Why does Master Lu Chuan always tell me that "the molecular formula is not important"? So what is the most important thing to learn braised dishes?

However, in the usual cooking, we often find that even if we hold the precise formula in our hands, we can't make the proper taste. This is because the flavor of brine depends not only on the formula, but also on the comprehensive influence of technological process and specific operation process. So in my opinion, even if there is a whole formula, it is not the essence of brine. Moreover, the taste of each region is different, and the formula for slaughtering cattle is not suitable for the taste of the whole country, so I only learn formula and fur. It is impossible to cook braised dishes only by formula. Only by systematically learning the whole operation process and matching the formula can we make delicious braised pork products. Therefore, the formula mentioned by Master Lu Chuan is not important, and I agree.

I think the important essence of braised vegetables can be roughly divided into three aspects, namely, preparation and maintenance of brine, selection of raw materials, primary processing and marinating, and sales of finished products. Below, I will introduce the main points of these three aspects in detail with the experience of braised pork head meat, hoping that the subject can refer to it.

Key points of brine preparation

A good braised pork, whether the finished product tastes strong or not, old brine plays an important role. In order to make bittern produce the effect of old bittern as soon as possible, old chicken, pig bones and other raw materials are generally used as the base soup to make up for the lack of strong taste of the finished product.

Hanging method of broth:

1. Take ten catties of pig leg bones, two old hens and three catties of pig skin, soak them in blood water first, then blanch them to remove blood foam and chop them into large pieces for later use.

2. In a stainless steel bucket, add 50 kg of clean water, add the raw material to blanch, boil it with strong fire for eight hours, then rinse the soup with strong fire for half an hour, stir it constantly with a spoon to prevent the pot from being burnt, and finally boil the bones into slag and filter to get a broth of about 35 kg.

Soup to bittern soup: add spices (0.75% soup juice can be added), simmer for two hours, add sugar color (boiled with gardenia water), salt (1.6%-2%), monosodium glutamate (0.8%) and crystal sugar (0.4%), fry and seal oil.

Note: 1. In order to make the braised pork products appear red and bright, the brine should have moderate viscosity and naturally thicken. Adding fried seal oil can make the finished product more shiny (with the continuous increase of braised pork in the later period, fried seal oil will not be used again).

2. It is best to control the sealing oil in salt water at about three centimeters. Too much salt water is easy to stew. Later, more and more bittern oil can be skimmed.

Key points of brine maintenance and preservation

After a long period of marinating, the taste of the finished product will become stronger and stronger. In fact, the old brine and the ingredients themselves are easy. The old brine is getting fresher and thicker by the ingredients, and the cooking of the old brine makes the ingredients more and more fragrant. The most important key here is salt water maintenance. Without high-quality maintenance, reciprocity cannot be achieved.

Key points of brine maintenance: 1. After the salt water is used up every day, the residual residue should be removed with leakage.

2. Skim the upper oil slick, remove the impurities between the salt water and the oil slick, then filter the salt water in the middle into a clean bucket, and dump the salt water soup at the bottom of the old bucket by two or three centimeters.

3. Pour the bittern oil back into a new barrel, ignite and boil for about three minutes, then turn off the fire.

4. Put the pot of brine soup in a ventilated and dry place, put a shelf under it as far as possible, keep the bottom of the pot ventilated and cool it as soon as possible.

Key points of brine preservation

Common salt water: according to the above method, salt water should be cooked once or twice a day in summer. Winter can be extended to three or four days.

Unusual bittern: After the bittern is cooled, separate the bittern from the bittern oil and put it in the refrigerator for freezing.

Note: 1. Salt water can't be burned out. Generally, there are two kinds of empty burning. First, when the brine soup is maintained, it can be turned off after boiling for three minutes, and it is not allowed to burn empty for a long time. Second, the ratio of halogen to halogen is wrong. You can't just use 30 Jin of halogen to marinate 10 Jin of pig's head, which also belongs to empty burning. Empty burning will make the brine darker and darker.

2. Do not cover the brine when cooking, so as to prevent the low steam water from causing brine rancidity.

3. There is another key to salt water maintenance, which is called circulation. Circulation is not only to cook new goods every day, but also to keep the circulation of brine. After cleaning the old soup at the bottom every day, add some water or broth for circulation (normal brine cooking also has losses). This water should be added every time, but not too much at a time, so as to make the brine alive (not only control the color, but also control the salinity). Even if the total amount of salt water is enough, skim off a part and add water. It's a pity to lose this part of water, which can be used to make braised dishes.

4. After the marinated goods are finished, the seasoning package must be fished out together, and must not be put into the marinated soup. After cooling, it is sealed and stored in the refrigerator.

Key points of raw material selection

The first is freshness. With fresh ingredients, braised pork is half the battle. Then, choose ingredients without blood stasis and foreign hair.

Key points of primary processing of raw materials. Take the pig head as an example;

1. Buy fresh pig heads (usually split) and soak them in clear water for two or three hours to remove blood.

2. Cut off the pig's ears, remove the hair in the pores and remove the lymph. Roast the whole pig's head with a musket, then brush the black spots with steel balls, put the pig's head into a pot with cold water, add a little Redmi (packaged), paint the pig's head with pink background, take it out and wash it, and wait for marinating.

Note: 1. Even if the pig's head feels clean, it should be roasted again, which has two functions. First, it has subcutaneous hair, which may be exposed after cooking, so it should be baked deeper at first. Second, part of the pig's odor comes from sweat glands, which can be roasted off with fire.

2. The pig's head stinks, and the drowning time can be a little longer. Remember to skim off the foam.

Key points of marinated raw materials

It also includes key points such as coloring, seasoning and heating time.

Key points of coloring: I use the pure natural coloring method of braised pig's head meat, using the combination of sugar color, gardenia yellow and monascus rice, without using seasonings such as soy sauce. The specific method of frying sugar color:

1. Add 1 00g of Gardenia to1kg of clean water and boil for about10min. Filter Gardenia jasminoides Ellis (reusable) and use water for later use.

2. Stir-fry one kilogram of rock sugar in oil until the sugar solution turns yellow and falls back, then pour gardenia water and cook for three minutes.

3. The usage of red rice is to put it in the pig's head when drowning.

Emphasis on seasoning: the proportion of seasoning in formal marinating is the same as that of salt, monosodium glutamate and sugar in soup marinating. The only difference is the proportion of spices. The proportion of spices here needs to be controlled between 1%-2%. I usually use 1.5%.

Heat and time focus: Add seasoning and pig's head after the brine is boiled, then boil the pot again to keep medium heat, start adding sugar color, and keep medium heat 10 minute to stabilize the color of pig's head. Reduce the fire brine for 50 to 60 minutes, remove the pig's head and bone, put it in the brine again and stew for 40 minutes.

Note: 1. The method of sugar color in the formal marinating of pig's head meat is the same as when mixing brine, and the amount of sugar color in the formal marinating can be added according to the local favorite color.

2. Try not to put gardenia and monascus rice directly into salt water. First, the quantity is not well controlled, and second, it is easy to cause brine rancidity.

3. When using sugar color, be sure to turn on the medium fire and keep it on the medium fire to stabilize its color.

The focus of finished product sales

Mainly how to keep the brightness of braised pork, including how to reduce the oxidation speed and prolong the oxidation time of braised pork.

The key point of reducing oxidation rate: 1. Control the temperature of the pot reasonably. If the freshly marinated meat is directly taken out of the pot, with the discharge of steam, it will aggravate the blackening of the marinated meat (no oxidation without adding sugar). So I usually cook at 67 degrees, which also needs to control the stewing time.

2. The upper layer of brine oil slick can be brushed on the surface of braised pork, and then covered with white cotton cloth for sale, which reduces the direct contact of air and reduces the oxidation rate.

Key point of prolonging oxidation time: 1. Sugar is tender, not light. 2. Color with sugar when marinating formally, and the braised pork is lighter in color.

It should be said that there is a key point in every link of braised dishes production, which is a whole system and can not be solved by a formula. Even the disposal of braised pork leftovers is focused and skillful. Only careful work can make high-quality braised pork products.

The above is my real experience, I hope to give you a reference. Due to the limited time, I wrote it in a hurry. Friends who like brine knowledge can also leave a message in the comment area below. It's just a statement, and I hope that the shortcomings will be corrected by the criticism of bittern coffee.

The preparation of bittern soup requires star anise150g, cinnamon100g, pepper 300g, fragrant leaves 20g, fennel10g, dried ginger 50g, angelica dahurica 40g, fragrant fruit 50g, Amomum tsaoko 60g, white button 30g, licorice 50g and honey 20g.

Step 1: all the materials are cooled in oil, and then boiled in a pot until they bubble.

Step 2: Add 1500g soybean oil, 300g dried pepper, fry with low fire, and add 30 kg water to boil.

Step 3: add 600 grams of salt, 800 grams of sugar, 900 grams of monosodium glutamate and a proper amount of cooking wine.

Step 4: Color matching and sunset yellow.

Precautions:

1. For example, braised pork intestines with strong flavor must be separated separately to avoid other braised dishes.

2. It is very important to grasp the temperature. Duck feet for about 45 minutes, duck wings for about 35 minutes, beef for 60 minutes, duck head for 35 minutes and fat intestines for 40 minutes.

3. Pickled soup can be reused. When preserving the pickled soup, be sure to remove the impurities inside, and then put it in the refrigerator after thorough cooling. Pickled soup should be packed in ceramic or glass containers.

4. Soak the marinade bag in hot water for more than 2 hours before use, and then put salt water after cleaning.

5. There is no need to add soy sauce, soy sauce and oyster sauce to the brine.

6. Always clean the floating foam on the brine pan and filter the sediment with brine every day.

7. Don't overcook the sugar, and the heat must be controlled.

Cooking pot-stewed vegetables is a long-term process, and you must have enough patience and confidence to do it better.

What is the best dish sold in Sichuan and Chongqing in summer?

Lu Wei, all kinds of Lu Wei! Take our community as an example. There are no fewer than six braised food stalls in the neighborhood, and each one has its own best braised food.

What is Sichuan-style pot-stewed dish? Pot-stewed vegetables are divided into white and red bittern, both of which belong to the largest category of the five flavors. The simple explanation is that white brine is colored without sugar, and the brine is light and suitable for blending. For example, Rongchang braised goose and Fengdu spicy chicken in Chongqing are typical white brine.

Red brine needs to be colored with sugar, which is much heavier. Comparatively speaking, red brine is suitable for large pieces of meat, such as the famous No.1 pig's trotters in Chengdu and the braised beef series in Yunyang, Chongqing. Whether it is red or white, it is all spiced, with the characteristics of crisp, soft, fresh and fragrant, suitable for all ages.

A braised pig's trotter, glutinous and glutinous, soft and glutinous, has a pleasant aroma, especially tasty, not salty or light, with just the right ingredients, a little sweet, sticky on the hands after eating, fragrant lips and teeth, and endless aftertaste.

In fact, it is very difficult to learn authentic Sichuan brine, because the shops with good braised taste are old shops that have been passed down for a long time, and each one has its own uniqueness. It's hard for you to eat two special braised dishes with similar tastes.

As for the fact that Master Lu Chuan keeps telling you that "the formula is not important", it is actually like saying "I'm not drunk" to a drunk person. Not drunk = drunk; Not important = important.

In fact, the reason why I told you that "the formula is not important" is because most distributors are handed down from generation to generation. On the basis of the basic formula of spices, often the old halogen shop will add several spices that other families don't have. The basic gravy is actually very simple: star anise, cinnamon, fennel, licorice, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, fermented grains, pepper, Amomum villosum, Amomum tsaoko, clove, ginger, onion, cooking wine, rock sugar, monosodium glutamate, salt, bone soup, lard, and of course, soy sauce and soy sauce. I don't know the secret recipe, but most of them are Chinese herbal medicines.

Now Sichuan bittern has changed. On the basis of natural spices, the unique Sichuan spicy brine was made by adding peppers with different spicy degrees. This brine is more suitable for drinking beer in summer.

Secondly, the reason why "the formula is not important" is because there is another very important thing in Chuanlu, Laolu! This is the highlight of all time-honored brands. What is old bittern? That is, the brine keeps boiling, the pot of brine does not dry up, and the marinade and ingredients are added all the year round to keep the essence of the new and old marinade and ingredients in the pot of brine that has not stopped for a hundred years.

Excuse me, can this brine not taste good? Without this old bittern, what's the use of holding the formula?

In the last two years, pot-stewed dishes are very popular in Chongqing, and they are called the essential elements of new hot pot. Everyone put up signs, and I'm not very interested in exclusive secrets, but if you come to Chongqing to play, you can still try it. Braised pot-stewed vegetables are really another flavor.

By the way, remember that no matter what kind of marinated vegetables are, they are not delicious or salty after being salted. Some pot-stewed food stalls with bad business will be sold the next day. How to identify them? Look at the color, compare similar halogen products, and choose a lighter color, which is the fresh halogen dish pickled today.

I come from Pengzhou, Chengdu, Sichuan, and have been a deli for nearly 30 years. I often tell my disciples that the recipe is really not the most important thing in stew.

The first function of formula in pot-stewed vegetables is to keep the aroma of pot-stewed vegetables stable. If we add spices at will every day, it will inevitably lead to different flavors every day, sometimes fragrant, sometimes not fragrant, and even some spices are too heavy, resulting in the phenomenon that the braised dishes are fragrant, so a standard amount of spices is the premise to keep the aroma of braised dishes stable; The second function of the formula is to help enhance the fragrance. One thing to remember when cooking braised dishes is to keep the original flavor of the ingredients, that is, braised meat should be able to taste meat and vegetables should be able to taste fresh fragrance. If the seasoning is too heavy to cover up the smell of meat, then you are not eating braised pork, but eating seasoning.

The most important factor to determine whether a braised pork is delicious is not spices, which I often mentioned in my previous sharing. Of all the flavors, salt is the most sensitive and indispensable one. Therefore, salt is the most important thing in cooking pot-stewed vegetables. There is no salty taste, and it is useless to put more spices. Secondly, the temperature is also very important for stewing vegetables. The heat determines the taste of braised pork. What kind of ingredients need what kind of heat, and how long it takes to marinate have strict requirements. For example, fat meat needs to be marinated in medium fire, which is conducive to fat degreasing and is not greasy to eat. Lean meat needs to be marinated with small fire to avoid excessive dehydration of lean meat and make it dry. Moreover, the marinating time is relatively tight, the marinating time is at least 2 hours, while the marinating time of chicken feet and chicken wings is only 20 minutes. Then there is the pretreatment of ingredients, such as soaking, pickling, blanching and so on. These are the necessary procedures to remove the odor of ingredients. With so many detailed factors added together, any problem in any link will have an impact on the quality of braised pork. Therefore, there is a saying that "the spice formula in braised dishes is not the most important". Facts have proved that this statement is true!

The view that spices are not the most important in braised dishes was specially shared in my previous article. Friends who like braised dishes can pay attention to it and have a look. For a more detailed explanation and technical points of braised vegetables, please refer to my previous article.

We have been engaged in the cooked food industry for nearly 30 years, and all the sharing is our own practical experience, which is a very practical method.

Is the formula of catering industry important? Why did the master say "Formula is not important"?