Introduction of Mr. Givenchy's Constellation _ Introduction of Mr. Givenchy's Constellation Map

Brief introduction of Mr. Givenchy's constellation

Wen | Yilin

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Hubert de Givenchy, the founder of Givenchy, died in his sleep at the age of 9 1 in March.

At the moment I heard the news, I couldn't help sighing: "The era of masters is over. 」

With the sudden death of christian dior, coco chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and cristobal balenciaga, the masters who once defined the golden age of high fashion, the brand fell into the curse of capital operation and lost its noble light.

In this era of "diaosi wins the world", the pioneer of subculture pushes the tide brand onto the runway, and the pursuit of material desire overwhelms the respect for taste. Deconstructing or even recreating classics is more likely to lead to "explosion" than looking for inspiration to carve details.

The brand no longer maintains "originality" and high quality. Abandoning the original brand, it soared on the highway chasing sales and explosions. Like Alto, it flew too low in Feng Gong's mouth, and "Forever" became the biggest joke.

In fact, clamoring for "comfort" and "freedom" and pretending to be "fashion-ugly" are just excuses for not being able to control your mouth, weight and inflexibility.

One party claims to "be yourself", and the other party makes a phone call with hashtag on social networks.

It seems that with these labels, I am Hypebeast and Fuccboi myself. In fact, I am just immersed in the self-positioning that GPS can't find. I still can't see who I am after looking in the mirror for hundreds of thousands of times.

When we are shouting "be yourself", who really becomes "yourself"?

Some people lamented the death of hubert de givenchy, together with the "elegant" era he once defined.

Some people feel sorry until? After Givenchy's death, he discovered that he had misunderstood this brand that had repeatedly exploded, a master of the times who was "elegant all his life".

Although we all know that both Mr. Givenchy and christian dior are French aristocrats, they have shown artistic talent since childhood.

He is a classmate of christian dior, and he appreciates and inspires each other with cristobal balenciaga, the founder of Balenciaga.

There is also a well-known legend created by him and Audrey Hepburn in the past 40 years.

Today, Yilin will take you into that era and take a close look at the golden age that belonged to Givenchy and the "gods".

Phantom line, literally translated as ghost between stitches. According to legend, this is a term from Victorian textile workers in east London. They do long and repeated physical labor every day, and their fingers will unconsciously vibrate and tighten after work, as if they are sewing "ghost silk thread".

Phantom Thread, winner of the 90th Oscar for Best Fashion Design, recreates the fashion house story popular in 1950s.

The hero Reynolds? Woodcock? Daniel Day Lewis, who resembles Mr. Givenchy, is full of facial sculpture, elegant and meticulous.

The Christian decoration style of Woodcock Fashion House (Woodcock Fashion House) is reminiscent? Cristobal balenciaga;

Reynolds is brilliant, sensitive and fragile, as if Yves Saint Laurent were reincarnated.

His eccentric behavior and demands remind people of karl lagerfeld; , Lafayette.

The rhythm of workaholism and strong possessiveness of design works all reflect the shadow of Charles James.

The screen opens, shimmering, dim light and shadow, Yorkshire winter night, the protagonist's headstrong, women burning their own desires, laughing and drinking vulture wine, lingering sadomasochism.

Love is an illusion of going back and forth, and customization is a love letter between cracks, but people no longer understand it.

The information of that era was far less developed than today. Not everyone who makes clothes can open a fashion shop, and not every fashion shop can open on Montaigne Avenue where celebrities gather.

Designers can have a fashion house named after themselves, and they can also attract guests with the same taste as you and let them follow you unswervingly. In addition to excelling in craftsmanship, visitors should be dead set on recognizing you as the legendary "trustworthy person" at first sight, and even have an unknown undercurrent in their hearts.

Every morning, before opening the door, Reynolds must meticulously tidy up his image.

Only when your image can withstand the careful scrutiny and exploration of guests can you convince them that you will treat each needle with the same elegance and rigor.

If you want to do business with upper-class people, you must also have a decent match.

In that era of pure handwork, horses and chariots were too slow and handwork was too slow. Every new dress is a love letter to myself and the future.

The label is hidden in the corner of the skirt, with its own name on it, and every needle is full of temptation and throbbing.

A good fashion designer must sew clothes full of emotion and hope.

Alma, the heroine, feels that her neck is too thin, her shoulders and hipbones are too wide, and she has no chest. I'm embarrassed to say it myself, but in Reynolds' eyes, this is the most perfect figure in the world.

Under Reynolds' "packaging", Alma was successfully upgraded to a goddess.

The influence of clothing, hairstyle and makeup on a person's overall image is not exaggerated. At the clothing store, Kate? Winslet plays the heroine? Tilly Dunnage, on the other hand, successfully customized an exquisite embossed dress for Trudy, which helped her become a stunning Cinderella and captured Gao Fushuai, who had a secret crush for a long time.

Being the most popular fashion designer has changed the girls in the whole town and changed their lives.

When the countess saw the evening dress Reynolds designed for her, she was so happy even if she was strangled.

In the eyes of designers, you are not a moving two-legged clothing display rack, but a thoughtful and soulful partner.

Givenchy's design concept is: let all women wear their own style.

Every creation is like dancing in chains. Before publishing your own design inspiration, you should carefully consider the guests' ideas and requirements.

After referring to the guest's identity background, wearing occasions, purchase budget, personal preferences, body characteristics, age and other details. , injected with the elements of fashion trends.

Successful fashion design can reflect the brilliance of your soul.

Customization people all know that "good customization starts with fabrics".

If you choose the wrong fabric, even the best design and production can't reflect its real value!

The designer compares the fabric with you, and both you and he can see that different fabrics have different chemical reactions on you.

Some materials make you look energetic, some make you look calm and gentle, and some make you look old and tired.

Even if you don't know the spell in each piece of cloth, you can still find that one is better by comparison.

Kiton's fabric is very famous. Sewing a suit with superfine fiber fabric weighs less than 500 grams!

Moreover, Kiton's customized suit can remain durable, even if it is often folded, rubbed and shaken, it can be as crisp as just ironed.

Customization is about "people wear clothes", not "clothes wear people".

Givenchy once said, "A skirt must follow the female body, not let the body follow the shape of the skirt. 」

In addition to paying attention to fabrics, tailoring naturally requires that every point should fit the wearer's body shape. Only by accurately grasping the physical characteristics of the wearer can clothing highlight its advantages and avoid its disadvantages.

Successful custom-made clothing is like your second skin, comfortable but not artificial, and like your armor, it puts on your momentum instead of imprisoning you.

Charvet, founded in 1838, is one of the most expensive shirt brands in the world!

Whether a custom-made shirt is successful or not needs to accurately obtain 28 data of the guests, and the living habits of the customers should also be considered in the design of the shirt! For example, the habit of buttoning, whether you like bow ties or ties, and so on.

"London is to men what Paris is to women. Saville Street, located in London, England, as a holy place for global menswear customization, is almost a place that every successful person is eager to go!

The hand-made suit of Saville's top tailor shop is a status symbol. Anderson &; Sheppard is on this street.

Reynolds in the play? Woodcock's clothes are all Anderson &; Sheppard customization,

Measurement of at least 27 different body parts, at least 50 working hours of full manual production, 1: 1 slice cutting.

Every dress in the * * is designed by Victorian designer Mark Bridges &; Albert Museum has personally studied a large number of details of dresses, including the works of Balenciaga, Ba Erman, Victor Stiber and even the royal designer Norman Hartnell, and tailored them according to the models' figure.

The moment I got new clothes, it was like finding the TA in my dream. I held back my joy and gently touched it in my hand, for fear that it would disappear in the next moment.

"I feel that I have been waiting for you all my life, until this moment, I found you."

So now that you have found me, please be careful what you want to do.

Can't wait to put on your upper body and enjoy your wisdom with your partner.

Unlike today's one-way choice of brands, in those days, you didn't have the money to be a guest in a fashion house, and your taste was as red as that of a designer.

If cloth is conscious, it must be very painful. But only when it hurts can it become clothes.

The "running-in" between cloth and cloth, the communication between cloth and design inspiration, and the fit between clothing and wearer are not like the blending of soul and soul.

If clothes have a soul, I'm afraid they will say "that skirt doesn't belong here" like Alma.

Then, before Alma and Reynolds "stripped off", the dress broke away from Barbara Ross's body and ran with them.

Although today's high fashion has stepped down from the altar and fallen into the mortal world, it has become a "fashion item" that you and I can have. After all, we only have one body, and we often wear only a few clothes in the corner of the wardrobe.

Mr. Givenchy once said that if a woman wants fashion, "all she needs is a raincoat, two suits, a pair of pants and a cashmere sweater." 」

Life is so simple.

I don't deny that social networks and convenient purchase channels have brought convenience and fun to our lives, but in this era, should we also reflect? ?

Text and Editor: Lin Yi