77-year-old yohji yamamoto: Poor boy becomes godfather of fashion. This man in black is so cool.

Zhu Fan said: a cool old man with personality

Throughout September, yohji yamamoto's brand yohji yamamoto made frequent moves. First, it launched a joint name with Supreme, including a series of single items such as down jackets, jackets and sweaters. At that time, the brand was sent to a hot search, which caused an uproar and made everyone feel that it was simply broken.

Just when everyone was surprised by this joint name, yohji yamamoto immediately launched a joint name wristwatch to match Hublot. At the end of September, his cooperation with Lamborghini was exposed, and his autograph was printed on various joint products.

In fact, it is not unusual for yohji yamamoto to jointly sign contracts with other brands. For example, the well-known brand Y-3 signed a contract with Adidas. In addition to clothing, cooperation also extends to watches, automobiles and other fields. 20 16, it cooperated with Lexus to produce advertisements, and Zhu Fan also wrote a report about him.

But why does the joint cooperation with Supreme cause a sensation on a small scale, which makes people feel incredible? This is related to yohji yamamoto's obstinate style and anti-fashion design concept. He once said, "I'm not interested in fashion yet, I'm only interested in how to cut it." Supreme is one of the hottest street trend brands in recent years.

Therefore, the following series of joint names can't help but arouse people's speculation that yohji yamamoto is once again in financial difficulties and is saving itself in this way? Or is it just for popularity and money?

As a national treasure designer, yohji yamamoto's design once had an influence in the fashion circle. Previously, Zhu Fan also read his autobiography "yohji yamamoto: I Dropped a Bomb", which revealed many of his growth experiences and design ideas. Today, Zhu Fan will tell you the story of this cool old man.

-I'm the dividing line-

Yohji yamamoto: A bomb thrown in the fashion world.

The high position of fashion circle: the new head of Japanese fashion wave

Now 77-year-old yohji yamamoto can be said to be a fashion master, who is not only respected in the fashion circle, but also has many loyal fans all over the world.

He is as famous a Japanese designer as Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake. He not only handed over beautiful report cards in the fashion circle at a young age, but also conquered a large number of consumers with his maverick design. He also won the highest prize of the French Arts and Culture Medal-the Senior Knight Medal, which, like his title, is like a bomb dropped by the fashion circle.

From Y's, which was first founded in 1972, to yohji yamamoto, a brand of the same name in yohji yamamoto, there are now as many as eight brand lines, including the well-known Y-3 and so on.

Design style: obsessed with black and tailoring

Yohji yamamoto has his own fashion rules. Black is an indispensable element in his design, and he also set off a fanatical black wave. He himself is also called a black poet and a black magician.

(Paris Fall/Winter Fashion Week 2020)

The insistence on clothes tailoring is also one of the biggest characteristics of his design style. Yohji yamamoto wrote in the book: The tailoring of clothes is a reinterpretation of the body and an unprecedented way to show the body. His design always runs through neat and meticulous tailoring.

In addition to the design style is different from the mainstream fashion, his show style is also very obvious, except for all kinds of mysterious black, the models are ruthless. When I first appeared in the Paris show in the 1990s, it even made people sigh, and it felt more like a live performance of rock music. "The dark ages have finally arrived!"

(20 19 Paris Spring and Summer Fashion Week)

Start a joint work of cooperation.

However, although yohji yamamoto has always been adhering to the "anti-fashion" attitude, there are also many cooperative brands, such as Y-3, which is a sports fashion brand created by combining the styles of yohji yamamoto and Adidas after a year of cooperation, and has been worn by celebrities such as Kanye and A$AP Rocky.

In his early years, he also cooperated with brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo and New Era, which seems quite regular.

But cool old men who don't like to follow the rules often cooperate unexpectedly, such as Hello Kitty. In recent years, they are more inclined to cooperate with fashion brands. Dr Martens and xVESSEL of VanNess Wu jointly signed it.

Yohji yamamoto's efforts in cross-border joint ventures this year are equally surprising. In the eyes of fashion lovers, Yohji is a clear stream in the fashion hall. Working with Supreme, the hottest fashion brand, has to make people feel that it has fallen off the altar.

But in fact, the cooperation between the two brands is ultimately for a win-win situation. Although Yohji has always been on the top, its popularity in the global market is not as high as expected. Many people have only heard the name of yohji yamamoto and are not familiar with his design and brand.

(20 19 Spring/Summer Fashion Week)

The cooperation with Supreme has increased Yohji's popularity and injected fresh blood into it, which has been operating poorly for many years. Now Yohji is taking a more commercial route, and its expansion in China is also obvious. This year, it also opened a flagship store in JD.COM.

How did yohji yamamoto change from a poor boy to a master designer?

Speaking of yohji yamamoto, his life experience is very bumpy. With his own efforts, he "broke into Paris" and realized the transformation from a poor boy to a design master, occupying a place in the Paris design circle.

Living in poverty in his early years, his mother inspired his interest and inspiration in designing clothes.

When yohji yamamoto was a baby, his father died in battle, and he lived alone with his mother, who worked as a tailor to make money. His family lives in Shinjuku kabukicho and leads a hard life.

(yohji yamamoto was with friends when he was a child)

My mother has a great influence on yohji yamamoto. He once wrote in his autobiography: As far as I can remember, my mother never verbally punished me. I grew up watching my mother's busy back. Mother has been wearing mourning clothes every day since her father died.

Although his father's death and his mother's independence brought him a lot of childhood trauma, they also made him obsessed with black and formed a strong and persistent character.

Yohji yamamoto was determined to be a painter when he was young, but in order to raise his hardworking mother, he chose a road that would not make him poor, and he was admitted to Keio University, a top private school, to study law.

But in the third year of college life, he found that everything in college meant nothing to him. So he set off for a trip to Europe, rethinking his philosophy of life and feeling the fashion charm of Europe. This experience became the beginning of his ideal fashion design.

After finishing school, yohji yamamoto was not interested in legal work, but went to his mother's tailor's shop to help, because he was interested in clothes since he was a child. Unexpectedly, my mother flew into a rage and told him that if his idea was serious, he would learn basic tailoring first.

After listening to his mother's words, he immediately decided to enter the Tokyo Institute of Culture and Fashion to study fashion design, bid farewell to high flyers's identity and start his career as a designer. When he graduated from the Institute of Fashion Technology, he won the Japanese Decoration Award with excellent results and got the opportunity to go to Paris for further study.

Because he lived in the red light district of Shinjuku in his early years, yohji yamamoto was surrounded by women who made fun of men for a living. Most of the women who came to his mother's shop to make clothes demanded styles that men liked better, which made yohji yamamoto feel very disgusted, so the idea of "letting women wear men's clothes" planted seeds in his heart.

Yohji yamamoto founded Y's in 1972 and held the first women's show in Tokyo in 1977. His loose and uninhibited clothing modeling, special interpretation of tailoring and consideration of fabrics have made him a great success in Japan.

But in the 1970s, yohji yamamoto's design was particularly deviant and controversial, and he began to "break into Paris" at first.

Break into Paris and occupy a place in the fashion circle with unique design concept.

198 1 Shortly after their arrival in Paris, yohji yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo held their first show in Paris, which brought great shock to the fashion world at that time and caused waves in the fashion circle in Paris.

Elena Silvani, the European editor of Vouge at that time, once said this about yohji yamamoto. "After watching his program, I think this is not a cultural shock, but a fashion shock. This is a brand-new fashion show that I have never seen before. "

However, after the big show, not everyone can understand their design. At that time, Europe advocated elegance and curvaceous beauty, so the audience felt shocked and few people appreciated it.

Yohji yamamoto's rebellious heart was completely aroused, and he was determined to shine in Paris. In the next few years, under the great pressure of public opinion, he began to hold programs frequently. With his unconventional and asexual design style, he gradually focused on the eyes of fashion circles, and more and more people agreed with him. The performance was even crowded.

The media and newspapers that once attacked him began to smell really good, and it was a revolution to evaluate his design. People gradually recognized his position in Paris fashion circle, and even compared him with Yves Saint Laurent, who was in the limelight at that time.

Although he is the godfather of fashion, it is not always smooth sailing.

Although yohji yamamoto was later called the godfather of fashion, the business circle of fashion was not so easy to mix, and his career in fashion was not smooth after he became famous.

From 65438 to 0988, yohji yamamoto opened a boutique in Paris. Design and display have always maintained first-class standards, and the commercialization of the brand has also steadily advanced. At the peak of the end of last century, its brand sales reached 654.38+0.2 billion yen in eight months.

However, yohji yamamoto, who is committed to design, has no business sense and is not very keen on management. Ten years after entering 2 1 century, the development of brand has been declining.

After the financial crisis in 2008, yohji yamamoto suffered a serious economic crisis after long-term mismanagement. Yohji yamamoto even took on a debt of 6 billion yen and filed for bankruptcy protection the following year. Even the Paris Men's Wear Week in 2008 was the first time to be absent.

After filing for bankruptcy, Japanese private equity firm Integral stepped in and took over two companies owned by yohji yamamoto. In order to keep the company developing, yohji yamamoto had to give up a lot of equity and continue to be the creative director.

Although it didn't change its name and surname, Yohji, which is not completely owned by yohji yamamoto, was reborn after the crisis. In the following ten years, not only some more popular sub-brands, such as Y-3, were derived, but also more attention was paid to commercialization and retail business was launched.

Yohji yamamoto in life: a cool old man with personality

Yohji yamamoto in life is a man with many labels. While he is still working at the age of seventy, he is also a cool old man with full personality.

Master of iconic modeling and famous sayings in fashion circle

Yohji yamamoto himself may be the best performer in yohji yamamoto style. His style is very iconic, with long unruly hair, almost unchanged beard and his favorite Borsalino black hat. You can tell it's him at a glance.

Yohji yamamoto once said that "black is the color with the most attitude, which clearly expresses' I don't bother you, and you don't bother me'", so he is not only a black maniac when designing fashion, but also his clothes are black from head to toe.

When carving a concave shape, it is often a cigarette that never leaves your hand. What you want is the feeling of an artist.

In life, yohji yamamoto is not obsessed with material things. For example, the car he used to drive was a Nissan Cedric in the 1980s, which had been driving for more than 30 years.

It was not until a few years ago that I got a new black Lexus GS.

In addition to his unique style and thought, yohji yamamoto loves to express his philosophy of life, saying many classic quotations, and the title of celebrity master in fashion circle is not without reputation.

For example, "I never believe in lazy freedom. The freedom I yearn for is a broad life achieved through diligence and hard work. Freedom is precious and valuable", "Be a free and self-disciplined person and live seriously with the determination that will be realized" ... The full "chicken soup" also makes him a spiritual idol of supporters.

He is often like a poet, expressing his feelings with many poetic expressions in his autobiography.

However, the rebellious yohji yamamoto often showed his "mourning" side. He hates traditional fashion, the past and the future, and impetuous young people. He once said, "I don't know why, I just want to accomplish nothing."

Slash youth

Besides brand crossover, yohji yamamoto is a good crossover in life. He has a wide range of hobbies, many of which have nothing to do with design. He likes to do one thing to the extreme and can be said to be an excellent slash youth.

In 1990s, he began to try his favorite music, not only composing lyrics, but also releasing an album "I'm Leaving", which was staged at a concert in Ryuichi Sakamoto.

In 20 18, yohji yamamoto also held a concert in Tokyo, with almost no tickets.

Last year, Jay Chou became the spokesperson of the branch brand "S'yte", and yohji yamamoto also exchanged music with him and even customized several performances for him.

He is also very close to the film circle, appearing in the Shorthand of Urban Fashion by Wim Mendes, and designing clothes for Kitano Takeshi.

Besides music and movies, yohji yamamoto also has some accomplishments in sports. I studied judo for a while when I was a child. At the age of 46, I studied karate as a professional player. In five years, I became a black belt. I am also the president of Japan's empty-handed world alliance, and my resume is quite strong.

At the curtain call of the Y-3 autumn and winter show on 20 10, yohji yamamoto also invited Jeremy Scott, who is also a designer, to a karate competition and presented an egg to the audience. His skill is very powerful.

Finally, model Freja Beha was invited to take the stage. It seems a little funny that yohji yamamoto pretended to be provocative but was easily knocked down.

Plato's love and two marriages

Finally, talk about yohji yamamoto's love life, the most famous of which is his love affair with Rei Kawakubo.

He met Rei Kawakubo in his early years and later studied at Keio University. The consistency of fashion design concept and style makes them close, and they also love black to show people.

Their experiences are very similar. Both of them have run their own clothing brands, but they are frustrated because their designs are not recognized. They express themselves by communicating with each other like bosom friends.

When yohji yamamoto was going to "break into Paris", he invited Rei Kawakubo to go with him, and that famous big show came into being. Based on their efforts in Paris, the two developed a fashion business empire, and since then they have become court-level masters.

However, yohji yamamoto later revealed that he and Rei Kawakubo had lived together for many years before going to Paris. When he invited Rei Kawakubo to Paris, he didn't know that she had started a performance in Paris.

Yohji yamamoto felt cheated and began to consider leaving Rei Kawakubo. The relationship ended after about 8 years.

Yohji yamamoto's married life has always been a mystery. It is said that he has been married twice. In the first marriage, there was a son and a daughter. Daughter Yamamoto Rimei followed her father's footsteps and became a fashion designer, while son Yamamoto Yuji started a fashion management company.

Last year, when talking with Rick Owens, yohji yamamoto also revealed that he has a 20-year-old son and his mother is a female printmaker who has worked with him for more than 40 years.

The process is also dramatic. At that time, the printmaker suddenly told yohji yamamoto that he wanted a "child of his own". To this end, Yamamoto, who was 52 years old at that time, went to check whether he had fertility, and he was very proud of it. Later, mother and son moved to Paris and lived in an apartment in yohji yamamoto.

-I'm the dividing line of the finish line-

Okay, that's enough, yohji yamamoto. Do you like his design? Let's discuss it together in the comments section.

Business Model Producer: Editor Blair | Tina Action

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