Chinese ancient costume style and its symbolic significance

Among the costumes of ancient aristocratic families, the crown is the most gorgeous. The pre-Qin system was divided into two levels. How black the clothes are (mysterious clothes) look like the sky; The clothes are yellow (Huang Shang) like the ground. There are also light crimson ones. Xuanyi's wide sleeves are painted (embroidered or woven) with colored silk of scarlet, white, cyan, yellow and black. Among the dresses, the imperial robe is the most gorgeous. The pre-Qin system was divided into two levels. How black the clothes are (mysterious clothes) look like the sky; The clothes are yellow (Huang Shang) like the ground. There are also light crimson ones. Xuanyi's wide sleeves are painted (embroidered or woven) with colored silk of scarlet, white, cyan, yellow and black to represent the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons and flowers. Clothing paintings are also embroidered with Zong Yi (ritual vessels), seaweed (aquatic plants), fire and other patterns in colored silk. These pictures and patterns are collectively called 12 heraldry. There is a leather cup in front of the dress, which is scarlet. It is painted with three chapters: dragon, fire and mountain. It is tied on the belt around the waist and covered in front of the knee of the petticoat. Wear jade beside clothes. A tie (patterned pendant made of wide ribbon) on the back of a dress. There is also a big belt around the waist. Hair tied to the top of the head, wearing a crown (hat). Buttons are rolled on the crown, and jade buttons are worn on the buttons to fasten the crown hair. Crown coronation (a flat plate with a width of 0.8 feet and a length of 65,438+0.6, behind the front ring, also called crown extension, made of wood and covered with black cloth and ochre cloth). Before and after the crown extension, there were 65,438+02 scorpions hanging evenly (using colored silk as a rope and crossing colorful jade beads, called scorpions). There is a jade hanging beside the crown, which is called "Ear". Full of red stripes (platform shoes, the sole is made of wood, with stripes on the front, wide and high enough to provoke the front fringe of the long skirt to move forward). Later generations followed the pre-Qin system with slight changes. The number of crowns of other officials, officials, ministers and doctors was reduced to 9, 7, 5 and 3 in strict accordance with the grade regulations, and the number of jade used for each crown was also reduced to 9, 7, 5 and 3 in turn, and the coat patterns were also different. There are dozens of names of coronation clothes, such as armadillo crown and mountain crown. The deep robe connected with the dress has the most extensive uses: it can be used as the second-class court dress of military attache, the evening dress of princes and scholars, and the casual clothes of emperors who don't care about the times. Thick clothes are the only clothes that Shu Ren can wear when attending the ceremony. It can also be worn at weddings, funerals and guest ceremonies, and can be worn by both men and women. Civilians wear pants and short clothes every day. It is said that it started from King Wuling of Zhao, and shorts and trousers were used as official clothes without skirts outside. This is a clothing style imported from northern minorities. Originally known as pants pleat (sound attack) suit, it was worn on pants with a short coat. Later, it was changed to adapt to the habits of the Han nationality. The poor are pleated, that is, thick long coats, mostly blue and black in color. White mourning. A man's head is a crown. The shape of the crown includes high crown, bow, beam crown, cage crown, small crown, hoe, bow, hat and so on. Its exquisite names of various crowns and hats, such as health hat, hat, hat, sage hat, big hat, round hat, goose hat, Tang towel and mat hat, can reach dozens. Others wear all kinds of headscarves, such as square headscarves, swastikas, cloud towels, soft towels, wide towels, kudzu towels, huayang towels and so on. And there are local farmers' hats. The crown is a "hat" worn by aristocratic men, but its style and use are different from the so-called hats of later generations. It is said that the early crown was only the crown beam, not very wide and wrinkled, and both ends were connected with the crown ring. When put on, the crown beam is like an arc-shaped belt, covering the hair from front to back. It can be seen that the ancient crown did not cover all the heads like the hats of later generations. The crown is one of the most distinguished ceremonial crowns. At first, emperors, princes and doctors all wore crowns when offering sacrifices, so later the idiom "grandiose" came into being. "Crown" can also be used as a synonym for officials and as a metaphor for "ranking first". Ai is also a more distinguished crown, including Jue Ai and Pi Ai. It is said that knights just don't have crowns. Pige is made of white deerskin, with a spire, similar to the melon skin hat of later generations. The hat is said to be the headdress before the crown. In Xun Zi Ai Gong, "Ai Gong asked Shun Guan to crown Confucius", Confucius said that "the ancient monarch lived in it", and Yang Xu noted that "reading things means bearing them", which means that things are hats. Later, the hat became the official headdress. Du Fu's Song of Drinking Eight Immortals says that it is impolite for Zhang Xu to take off his hat before he shows the top of the princes, so it is polite to put on his hat. Body parts clothes only refer to tops. The next coat is called petticoat. The Book of Songs says, "Huang Shang is in the green." But petticoats are not pants but skirts. What is connected together is called a deep coat. The ancients covered the skirt to the right (right hip), tied it with a sash, and then tied it around the waist. There are two kinds of belts: one is a big belt made of silk, and the other is a leather belt made of leather. The big belt is used to tie clothes. It is called a gentry. The ancients often said that "gentry" was to put the manuscripts held in the imperial court between the belts, and gentry became synonymous with officials, and the meaning of "gentleman" developed from this. Belts are used to hang jade ornaments and other things. The ancients cherished jade very much. "Book of Rites Jade Algae" says: "The ancient gentleman must wear jade." He added: "A gentleman doesn't go without a reason." Qiu and robe are both warm clothes. It can be seen that the ancients wore fur outward, otherwise it was not easy to see the color of fur. The robe is a long coat, which is said to be coated with milk and hemp. Generally speaking, people who are too poor to wear leather clothes wear robes. It can be seen that there is a difference between rich and poor when wearing robes and fur. After the Han Dynasty, there were crimson gauze robes and soap gauze robes, and robes became imperial clothes. In ancient times, cloth was not cotton, but hemp or kudzu vine. Silk is a general term for silk products. Cloth and silk also form a contrast between low-grade clothes and high-grade clothes. The poor can't afford to wear silk, so they can only wear linen, so "cloth" has become synonymous with Shu Ren. ) "About Pants" The pants mentioned in ancient times are not equal to the pants mentioned today. Said: "Yi, faithfulness also." It can be seen that what was said at that time was very similar to today's pants, except that there was no cover outside the pants. Pants with crotch are called pants, and "Ming Yi Shi" says: "Pants run through your feet and are tied around your waist." In addition, there is a kind of shorts fork similar to later generations, which looks like a calf nose and is called calf nose pants. It is very convenient to wear and operate. According to historical records, Sima Xiangru "wore calf nose pants" and washed utensils with handmaiden. In ancient times, some shoes were called shoes, such as Ma Xie and Ge Xie. It is said that leather shoes are worn in summer and in winter. Ordinary shoes are made of hemp rope. When editing, you should smash it while editing to make it strong. As can be seen from the unearthed cultural relics, most people in Shang and Zhou dynasties wore clothes that were divided into upper and lower parts. This is a man's uniform at that time. After the Middle Ages, the clothes divided into upper and lower sections became the exclusive products of women, and men mostly wore long clothes that were connected into one. When did this major change happen? Tracing back to the source, in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new kind of clothes with a top and a skirt appeared, which is the "deep clothes" that contributed to this change. Deep clothes did have many advantages at that time. It is very convenient to sew and wear, which is not only beneficial to activities, but also can tightly wrap the body and make full use of cloth. So it quickly became popular, and scholars, martial artists, officials and civilians all used it as daily clothes, even as a dress. At that time, the man's deep clothes were short, and only one layer was hidden behind him. Women's deep clothes are very long, wrapped in several layers, and there is a triangular skirt hanging down in front, which may be the oblique fork on the right side of the skirt. From this point of view, the biggest feature of this style of deep clothes is this kind of song and dance. During the Warring States period, there were obvious differences between the cultures of North and South countries. The same is true of the specific style of deep clothes. In the north, the sleeves are narrow and long, the top is close to the skin, and the clothes below are wide. In the coat part, it reveals some influences of the dress style of Hu people, which may have absorbed the characteristics of Hu clothes. In the south, you can see more than three different kinds of deep clothes. The style of a kind of deep clothes is very special. The sleeves are fat and drooping, and the mouth of the sleeves suddenly tightens. The clothes are long and can be brushed. People call it "bearded sleeves". This kind of sleeve can be used as a pocket, and sachets, towels, change and so on can be put in it. This is the ordinary dress worn by aristocratic women at that time. The shoulders and underarms of another suit are loose, and the sleeves gradually narrow from the shoulders, forming a slender and narrow cuff. The clothes rubbed against the ground so that the feet wouldn't show. There is also a style of clothes that is deep and looks simple. Its sleeves are very loose, like a cylinder, and the width of the clothes is almost the same from top to bottom, and the clothes are very short, exposing the feet. The drooping right inner front piece is also exposed under the front piece. This kind of clothing is simple in form, convenient to cut, suitable for work, and it is the daily clothing of middle and lower working people in Han Dynasty. Curled and straight robes have replaced the covering function of trousers and hindered the development of trousers. In areas where deep clothes are popular, pants are mostly in the form of legs. In the Han Dynasty, the clothes with short stilettos on the top and trousers or twisted legs on the bottom became more and more popular. At that time, it was common for working people to work naked and wear only a petticoat. Shorts at that time were similar to those in China today. They were called "You" in the Han Dynasty and were often worn by working people at the lower level. "Leg nose" is another kind of shorts worn by poor working people. It's short, just a three-foot piece of cloth around the waist and crotch, much like the crotch worn by Japanese sumo wrestlers today. The nose of the calf was very low in the eyes of the aristocratic rich at that time. As we all know, the heyday of feudal society in China was the Han and Tang Dynasties. In the same historical period, both Han and Tang dynasties were in the leading position in the world. The spiritual connotation of "Glory of Han and Tang Dynasties" lies in governing the world politically, coming to Korea from all directions, economic prosperity, people's happiness, magnificent and brilliant culture. China's complete clothing system was established in the Han Dynasty. The rapid development of dyeing and weaving technology, embroidery technology and metal technology in Han dynasty promoted the rapid development of clothing decoration. However, the costumes in the Tang Dynasty are colorful and unique, and they have become a wonderful work in China's historical costumes, attracting worldwide attention. "Take off the coat collar is wide and long; The sixteen words "button and tie, coat and skirt" summarize the characteristics of Hanfu. Holding hands and holding hands, there are no buttons, and they are tied with ropes, which gives people a free and easy feeling, which also makes Hanfu obviously different from other national costumes. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes). Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothes (deep clothes) are commonly worn by officials and scholars, while skirts are popular with women. Ordinary working people generally wear shorts. The skirt styles in this period are generally very short, only reaching the waist, while the skirt is very long and hangs to the ground. The skirt is also made of silk cotton and yellow silk. Men's clothes and robes were the most expensive in the Han Dynasty. Robes have always been considered as dresses. Mainly the cuffs have large sleeves with obvious convergence, and the collar and sleeves are decorated with lace. The collar of the robe is mainly bare collar, mostly cut into a heart shape, revealing underwear when wearing it. The hem of the robe is often tied in a row, and some are cut into the color of the crescent crown, mainly black. In the Han Dynasty, crowns and hats were the main symbols to distinguish grades, including crowns, long crowns, beautiful crowns, military crowns, law crowns and promotion crowns. According to the regulations, the Emperor of Heaven, Qi Huangong and Doctor Qing all wear crowns and clothes when attending the sacrificial ceremony. On both sides of the crown, there is a hole for inserting jade pieces to tie them with the bun. Tie ribbons on both sides of the quilt and tie them under the jaw. On the two ears of the ribbon, there is also a pearl jade called "Yuner", which is not inserted in the ear, but hung by the ear to remind the wearer not to listen to gossip. According to the regulations, anyone who wears a crown must wear a crown suit. The coronation suit is decorated with a mysterious coat and a scarlet bottom, with chapters on the top and bottom. Women's dresses in Han dynasty mainly include robes, straight single clothes, short clothes and skirts. The robe is enlarged and the hem is enlarged. Wearing this kind of clothes, the waist is wrapped tightly, and the waist or buttocks are tied with ribbons. Skirts are mostly made of four plain silks, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, without edges. Silk strips are sewn at both ends of the skirt waist for tying. Women's hair styles in Han Dynasty are diverse. The comb method of bun is generally divided into two parts from the top of the head, then they are bundled and folded from bottom to top to form various styles. Names include Yaotai steamed bun, Chuiyun steamed bun, Lily steamed bun, Tongxin steamed bun and so on. They often hang a bunch of hair behind a bun, which is called "blowing" or "cutting". The ladies put a step on their heads as a decoration. This is a kind of jewelry attached to women's shoulders, decorated with precious jade flowers and beasts, and colorful pearls and jade pendants, while handmaiden often uses towels. Women's dresses in the Tang Dynasty have always been famous for their richness, grace and luxury. Fashion trends are hiding and revealing, exquisiteness and fullness. The most fashionable women's dress is skirt. The rectangular straight skirt with uneven arrangement under the skirt is the main style, such as high waist or corset, hip-fitting and wide arrangement, that is, short coat and long skirt, and the skirt waist is tied with silk and ribbon, almost to the armpit. The "half-arm" circulated in the court of the prosperous Tang Dynasty has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. Often paired with a long scarf, it is made of tulle with flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm. This is called silk. In the Tang Dynasty, women often decorated their hair pins with flowers or pearls. The flower pins, face pins and oblique red make up beautiful makeup. Exquisite flower shoes are made of gorgeous fabrics, colored silk and leather. The most representative clothing features in the Tang Dynasty are: topless, high waist, shawl, colorful clothes, men's clothes, Hu clothes and so-called "contemporary clothes". Women's dresses in Tang Dynasty were mostly red, purple, yellow and green, with red being the most popular. The dress is topless and short, with a wide shoulder towel and high-headed cloud shoes. Women's clothing shows sexy charm, among which the use of bright-colored clothing is famous. Ming Yi was originally a single garment, made of sheer gauze. In the past, it was only worn as underwear. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, Mingfu was used as a coat and became a costume. Dressing up as a woman is also a major feature of Tang Dynasty costumes. Wearing narrow-sleeved round neck robes, belts and trousers, wearing Hu Mao became popular in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The main characteristics of men's crown clothing in Tang Dynasty are that the upper layer wears robes, the officials wear hoes and the people wear blouses. In addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials in the Tang Dynasty still wore formal dresses at sacrificial ceremonies. Most of their styles were inherited from the old system of the Sui Dynasty, such as wearing double sleeves, double-breasted shirts, skirts and ribbons from Yu Pei. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. The boldness and boldness of the Han and Tang Dynasties is enough to fascinate everyone in China. With the help of fashion exhibitions in Han Feng and Tang Yun, we can get a glimpse of that colorful and prosperous era. Although it is one of the leopards with all-round prosperity in Han and Tang dynasties, it makes our hearts flutter. This also urges us to create a cultural prosperity envied by future generations in today's great rejuvenation of the nation. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the aristocratic costumes were crowned with white jade figures, with tassels hanging down on both sides of the mandible, and the back of the head was braided and crowned; Wearing narrow-sleeved robes, belts and shoes. In addition to Hu clothing, there was another clothing style in the Spring and Autumn Period, which was called "Deep Clothing". Deep clothing is a kind of clothing connected from top to bottom, which has great influence on society. Both men and women, civil and military positions, can wear deep clothes. The men's costume of Chu State (left 1 and 2) shows a man wearing a dark dress with a melody, a zigzag front and embroidered with colorful patterns (painted wooden figurines handed down from ancient times, the original is now in the Leiden Museum in the Netherlands and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the United States). Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 on the left show men of the Warring States (Wenmu figurines unearthed in Changsha, Hunan), dressed in colorful clothes and deep clothes. On the right is a servant with big sleeves and a thick coat (a bronze maid unearthed in Shan Zhi, Pingshan, Hebei). There is an obvious difference between clothes with deep curves and other clothes, except that the lower part and the upper part of the coat are connected together, which is called "continuous hem." "Pants" is a skirt, and "continuation" means extending the skirt. Crochet "is to describe the style of skirt." Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt. Men in the Warring States wore knee-length clothes decorated with continuous rectangular stripes, which was very consistent with the edge decoration of lacquerware vessels at that time. Men's wear is dominated by cross collars, narrow sleeves and belts. Compared with the early Western Zhou Dynasty, the hook in the Warring States period made great progress. They are made of gold, silver, copper, iron and jade. The hook is engraved with patterns and sometimes inlaid with turquoise to show its wealth. There is also a brand-new gold and silver handicraft with a more exquisite and luxurious appearance. During the Warring States period, the iron smelting industry was relatively prosperous. In addition to making copper knives hanging on people, the technology is also excellent. The small machete with a length of 25 cm is engraved with patterns, which is deeply loved by people, hence the name "Rong Dao". At this time, the hanging knife is not completely practical, and a large part of it has replaced practicality with decoration. According to historical records, an influential event happened during the Warring States Period. That is, the military uniform reform promoted by King Wuling of Zhao was later called "Khufu riding and shooting". It looks like a robe, with short sleeves and wide body, and is decorated with golden jade hooks. Later generations' evaluation of this pioneering work in the history of clothing is that practice produces true knowledge. Without the practice of war, if Zhao was not in a weak position at that time, there would be no military uniform reform. Therefore, some people say that the decisive change of Zhao from weak to strong is one of the important conditions. According to the literature, "Since the Northern Qi Dynasty, China's clothes were all Hu Fu and narrow-sleeved boots. Narrow sleeves are good for running, and short clothes with long slits are good for grass. " This paper explains the appearance of the reformed dress and vividly describes the shape and function of Khufu. It can be seen that history is positive and appreciative of Khufu's bold innovation in China's clothing. Among the seven heroes of the Warring States, Qin is located in the remote northwest, so it is very different from the other six countries in dress etiquette. According to records, in the early Qin Dynasty, Luo Tou was used as the first costume (that is, the hair consumed by oxtail was used as decoration), and Jiang Pa (red scarf) was used as the hood for military commanders, and Yi (ancient headscarf) was used as the hood. Compared with Qin, the other six countries have superior geographical environment, but there are many luxuries in clothing, and there are also differences in clothing. According to records, there is a kind of beaded shoes in Chu State (shoes are decorated with precious stones); Qi was attacked by a golden fox, while Zhao was attacked by hundreds of maids and concubines. In addition, Chu's long crown, French crown and Zhao's alpine crown were all handed down from later generations. The above items are only known from written records, while image records can only be seen from portraits after the Han Dynasty.