Different dynasties have different Hanfu, which dynasty is more distinctive?

What is Hanfu? It is a traditional costume worn by ancient Han people. Since the era of the Yellow Emperor, the traditional costumes of the Han nationality gradually died out after the Manchu people entered the customs and practiced "shaving their hair and changing clothes". Nowadays, many beautiful women wear Hanfu when they go out. In order to have a basic understanding of ancient Hanfu, let's take a look. There are no women who wear Hanfu in history! See which dynasty Hanfu do you prefer?

Pre-Qin Dynasty: Elegant and gorgeous costumes are said to have been passed down. In ancient times, the Yellow Emperor and his ministers Hu Cao and Apollo designed the earliest costumes in ancient China, which were as high as the sky from top to bottom, using dark black. Dress like the ground and express your worship of heaven and earth in yellow. Especially when offering sacrifices to heaven and earth, the Yellow Emperor wore a coronation coat and held a grand sacrifice ceremony, which was later inherited by later generations. Therefore, there is such a record in Liao history: "Hanfu, the Yellow Emperor began to make coronation clothes, and later kings sacrificed them to enjoy them."

Pre-Qin clothing

China's Hanfu originated in the period of the Yellow Emperor. On the day of sacrifice, the Yellow Emperor will wear a very formal coronation suit to worship heaven and earth. So, "Zhou Li? Celestial officer? It is recorded in the submission of Neida: "The submission of Neida is the queen's six clothes, including yi clothes, land measures, lack of land, residence clothes, exhibition clothes, silk clothes and plain yarn. Among them, "Yi Yi, Gu Di, Quedi" are the costumes worn during the sacrifice. It shows that the costumes of later generations have a deep relationship with the Hanfu invented by the Yellow Emperor.

Due to the complete etiquette and cultural system in the Western Zhou Dynasty, the Emperor of Zhou improved and made strict regulations on clothing. For example, the Queen has six dresses, among which Yi Yi, Ba Di and Quedi are elegant and gorgeous, decorated with birds, so they are collectively called "Miyake". "Yi" is dark black, "Guti" is cyan, and "Missing Land" is red. The clothes are all made of silk and the lining is plain yarn. When offering sacrifices, the queen will wear these three different costumes to offer sacrifices to different ancestors.

Pre-Qin clothing

In addition to three sacrificial costumes, the Queen also has three uniforms, namely "bow costume, exhibition costume and curtain costume". Among them, "Juyi" is yellow and is worn when raising silkworms. The "exhibition clothes" are white and are worn when meeting guests. The "robe" is black and you wear it when you are at home with the monarch. Therefore, the "six clothes" owned by the Queen wear different clothes on different occasions. Looks very classy.

During the Western Zhou Dynasty, "the Emperor of Heaven established six palaces, three wives, nine wives, twenty-seven wives and eighty-one emperors." There are also regulations on the dress of harem concubines. The third lady wears "sparrow flute", the ninth lady wears "Juyi", the lady wears "exhibition clothes" and the royal lady wears "stripes". Mrs. Qing and the doctor wear "exhibition clothes", and Mrs. Yuan wears "clothes". Duke's wife wears Quedi, Hou Bo's wife wears Guti, and son's wife wears Quedi. Therefore, in ancient times, a person's identity could be distinguished by his clothes. Lv Buwei found that Zi Chu, who was taken hostage in Zhao State, might be dressed differently, so he thought he was a rare treasure.

Pre-Qin clothing

About the clothing styles of the pre-Qin period in the Book of Songs? Hurricane? "Green" embodies: "Huang Shang in green." Here "clothes" refer to coats, and "petticoats" refer to skirts. If the clothes are connected together, they are called "deep clothes". The "six clothes" in the Western Zhou Dynasty are different from the clothes and skirts in the Yellow Emperor period. The western Zhou dynasty's crown clothes are connected together, regardless of dresses, and plain yarns are connected from top to bottom, which is called "deep clothes". Of course, in the Spring and Autumn Period, there were not so strict regulations on clothing. At that time, there were two styles, one was that the clothes under the coat were not connected, and the other was that the clothes under the coat were connected.

As can be seen from the Book of Songs, during the Spring and Autumn Period, some people wore "skirts under their clothes", which was the kind of separation. Wearing clothes on the upper body and petticoats (skirts) on the lower body. Then there is "Huang Shang in Green" in The Book of Songs. What does this mean?

Because yellow was a positive color in ancient times, representing good luck, the emperor's robes were yellow. And green is an intermediate color, which was generally worn by handmaiden with lower status in ancient times. Ancient women usually wore the same color and were proud of yellow. If it's green, Huang Shang, it means upside down and humble. Therefore, it is not only men who are jealous of green, but also ancient women.

Han Dynasty: Yunying purple skirt is gorgeous, which is the most typical representative of Hanfu in China. The origin of Hanfu's name is also related to the Han Dynasty. If there were no Han Dynasty, maybe Hanfu today would be another name. As the Han Dynasty inherited the pre-Qin culture, Liu Bang was born a commoner. At the beginning of the accession to the throne, until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty (AD 59), there was not much change in Hanfu.

Han dynasty costumes in film and television dramas

"The Book of the Later Han Dynasty" records: "The Empress Dowager and the Empress Dowager entered the temple, covered with soap silkworms, all dressed in deep clothes, and tied with tapestries. Cut hair and hang beads. " The Empress Dowager and the Empress Dowager of the Han Dynasty wore deep clothes when they entered the ancestral temple for sacrifice. Soap (dark blue with red); Silkworm, green above, pale below (bluish white), basically can't see the faucet, and the edge of the faucet is decorated with patterns. Wearing a headscarf, a hairpin and earrings. The queen's temple clothes are similar to those worn by Empress Dowager Tai and Empress Dowager, but the headdress and pattern are different. The queen needs to tie her hair, shake her head, wear hairpins and earrings.

Noble people wear silkworm clothing (similar to Zhou Dynasty), pure light green (light blue) and deep clothing. Wearing a big hand knot and black tortoise shell jewelry, and adding a hairpin. When princess royal met the guests, he was also wearing a silk suit with a wave on his head. The princess also has a big hand knot and a hairpin. From the princess to the monarch, there are ribbons (a kind of ribbons), with colored ribbons as the waist. Because of different status levels, the colors are different. In addition to wearing gorgeous clothes to worship the ancestral temple, in the Han Dynasty, the palace costumes of Gong, Qing, Liehou, Zhong and his wife were all silk quilts.

The costumes of ordinary women in Han Dynasty were different from those of aristocratic women. Nobles can wear silk and satin, while ordinary women wear cloth (linen clothes). Women in the Han Dynasty mainly wore robes, tunics (jumpsuits), tunics (jackets) and skirts. What women wear every day are tops and skirts. Women like to wear long skirts, and tops are very short.

Han Dynasty Costumes in the Movie Song in the Cloud

"Miscellanies of Xijing" contains: "Zhao is the queen, and her clothes are woven into upper and lower clothes." Formal and casual clothes. Women in the Han Dynasty wore two-piece dresses, the most famous of which was the "fairy skirt". Zhao used to wear the "Yun Ying Zi skirt" which was a tribute from South Vietnam, also called "Lingxian skirt". It is similar to the pleated skirt now, and the skirt is very gorgeous.

It is said that there was also a kind of fairy skirt with wide sleeves in the court of the Han Dynasty (probably the "cloud skirt" paid tribute by South Vietnam), which was probably too gorgeous for ordinary people to wear, and then it disappeared and became a folklore. In the costume fantasy TV series Legend of the Sword and the Chivalrous Man 3, the heroine Solanum nigrum wears a fairy skirt with wide sleeves. In ancient times, beautiful women wore it like fairies. Therefore, when Zhao danced, she put on a "cloud skirt" and fascinated the Han emperor.

Sui and Tang dynasties: a slow skirt with half-exposed breasts. Because the Northern and Southern Dynasties inherited the characteristics of Han Dynasty costumes, women's costumes did not improve much. Moreover, the Northern and Southern Dynasties were chaotic, and the emperor at that time had no intention of changing his clothes. Ordinary women in the Northern and Southern Dynasties still wore clothes, shirts and skirts. Generally, there are two styles, one is wide sleeves, and the other is narrow sleeves. From the Book of Jin? According to "Jade Fu Zhi", "Since Wei Dynasty, the silkworms of the Queen have been embroidered with literature, which is not ancient. Now, it is advisable to take a solid color dress and think that it will last forever. " Therefore, the queen is still wearing silk clothes of the Han Dynasty, only adding patterns to the clothes.

Tangchao clothes

The Sui Dynasty was relatively short and followed the old system of the previous dynasty. After the establishment of the Tang Dynasty, Wude began to issue service orders in the fourth year (622). According to the "Tongdian" records: "Sui Dynasty empresses have four kinds of clothes: clothes, chrysanthemums, Tsing Yi and Zhu Yi; Three concubines have robes, nine concubines have squats, beautiful women have robes, Lin Bao has exhibition clothes, and women have clothes. " According to the system of the Tang Dynasty, there are three kinds of clothes for the empress: robe, bow and hairpin.

Illustrations of women in Tang Dynasty

"Clothes" are the costumes of the imperial court for collecting books, offering sacrifices and participating in important activities. It is made of dark blue, painted red, five colors and twelve grades. Plain yarn, embroidered with scarlet collar, and pleated decoration at the front end of sleeve. Juyi was worn when raising silkworms, which was similar to that worn by the Empress of Zhou Dynasty. Yellow gauze, no pattern. Cover your knees, there are big belts and belts in front, and the clothes are the same color as the clothes. "Candle-hairpin gift clothes" are clothes worn when meeting guests. Twelve kinds of cymbals are inlaid (jewelry decoration), and the clothes are mottled without patterns. Add a pair of small ribbons, twelve pieces of jewelry, like a headdress (jade string) and two hairstyles. There are also three kinds of clothes for the crown princess, namely "Zhai Zhai, Ju Yi and Chai Yi", while the jewelry flowers are reduced to Jiumu, Jiucymbals and Erfu An. Actually, it's similar to the queen's style, but the jewelry is different.

Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty

Most of ordinary women's daily clothes are rafts, coats, shirts, and skirts on their lower bodies. In addition, the skirt worn by women in the Tang Dynasty has a typical feature: the skirt is tied from the high waist to the chest, or tied under the armpit with a ribbon, and the skin of the neck and chest will be exposed to half. Zhou Lian wrote in the poem "Meeting Neighbors" in the Tang Dynasty: "When the sun is high, neighbors meet and laugh, and their skirts are half exposed." It made the best interpretation of the women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty at that time. So, why are women in the Tang Dynasty very open? Yes, they are very avant-garde. Those plump young women often wear high-cut skirts made of silk and tied with belts, which highlights the plump beauty except women. Yang Guifei was originally a plump beauty, and she was even more charming to wear, so she was deeply loved by Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty.

Song Dynasty: After the demise of the Tang Dynasty, after the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms War, it ended in the Song Dynasty. The song dynasty made great improvements in costumes, according to the history of the song dynasty? "Jade Fu Zhi" records: "The clothes of the queen and princess, one refers to the clothes, two refers to the clothes of Zhu, three refers to the clothes of Li, and four refers to the clothes." Besides, both the Crown Prince and the Princess have clothes. During the reign of Zhaowan Avenue in Song Xiaozong, it was decided that the queen would prepare clothes and etiquette clothes, and the princess would prepare clothes. Empresses wear colorful sleeves, long skirts, jade pendants and colorful collars, all of which are crimson, and their clothes are no different from those of courtiers.

Water Margin Pan Jinlian

In the Song Dynasty, most ordinary women's clothes were wearing a coat, a jacket, a shirt, a back and a half arm, and a long skirt below. Usually, they also wear coats (double-breasted robes). Women's dresses in Song Dynasty look conservative and can't highlight the beauty of women's body. In the Tang Dynasty, women wore Luo skirts, and the beauty of women's figure could be displayed with a drawstring. So now many women on the Internet are wearing Tang Dynasty skirts, not high-waisted skirts, high-waisted skirts or chest-length skirts. In the Song Dynasty, there were many restrictions on women. Unmarried women can't show their faces casually, so there are no gorgeous clothes.

Ming dynasty: red shirt with silk, elegant and simple, according to "yuan history?" "Jade Fu Zhi" records: "At the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, the country was founded, and the general things were made, and the car crown was made, and the old customs were followed." Therefore, the Yuan Dynasty destroyed the Southern Song Dynasty and entered the Central Plains in accordance with the old system of the previous dynasty, and did not "shave their heads and change clothes" for the Han people like the Qing Dynasty. Although the Yuan Dynasty did not force the Han people to change clothes. There are still some differences between the nobles of the Yuan Dynasty and the Han nationality. "Yuan history?" "Yu Fu Zhi" contains: "Braided coat, such as narrow sleeve shirt, with fine pleats at the waist. "Yuan dynasty clothing is a kind of Hu fu, with narrow cuffs, but the style is similar to that of Han and Tang dynasties.

Ming dynasty clothes

Ordinary Mongolian women in ancient times wore mink and fur hats. Generally, sheepskin clothing and felt are used as clothing materials. Influenced by the Han culture in Yuan Dynasty, women wore "crowns" on their heads, robes with wide and long sleeves and narrow sleeves. Mopping the floor for a long time requires two handmaids to drag it when walking, which is similar to the road clothes and crane clothes worn by Han scholars, and it is very inconvenient to move. In Yuan Dynasty, women of Han nationality wore swallows, which was similar to that of previous dynasties.

After the demise of the Yuan Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, the Ming emperor, improved his clothes. In the third year of Hongwu in Ming Taizu (1370), it was stipulated: "The dresses of the queen's collection, worship and meeting are dark blue with twelve red lent patterns embroidered. Plain yarn lining, single collar, beaded sleeves, hem and back welt. The color of the knee cover is the same as that of the skirt. The top is sauce-colored and embroidered with third class. The big belt is the same color, belt, full of green socks and gold ornaments. " The official uniforms of the Queen are Zhen Hong's long-sleeved coat and a robe. Long red dress with red buttons. The first dress was decorated with dragons and phoenixes on a special bun, and the dress was embroidered with golden dragon and phoenix patterns.

In the third year of Yongle (1405), Judy of Ming Taizu made great adjustments to the queen's dresses and uniforms, especially the colors, decorations and jewelry, but the general styles remained unchanged.

Ming dynasty clothes

In the Ming Dynasty, there were strict rules on the dress of ordinary women. Women could only wear purple but not gold embroidery. You can only wear purple, pink and light robes, not red, crow green or yellow. During Chenghua period in Zhu Jianshen, Ming Xianzong, women were not allowed to wear clay gold clothes and precious stones. During Zhengde period in Ming Dynasty, prostitutes were not allowed to use gold jewelry and silver bracelets. During the Wanli period in Zhu Yijun, Ming Shenzong, women wore red shirts and ribbons, which became a popular style at that time until the demise of the Ming Dynasty.

Judging from the major dynasties in history, from Qin, Han and Tang Dynasties to Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, the most glorious period of Hanfu was Han and Tang Dynasties. Women's dresses in the Song Dynasty were plain and unpretentious, and most people couldn't wear that feeling. The costumes of Ming Dynasty are elegant and simple, similar to those of Song Dynasty. So everyone should wear Han and Tang costumes, which can better reflect a person's aesthetic feeling.